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Hangboard repeaters protocol reddit.
Reddit's rock climbing training community.
Hangboard repeaters protocol reddit. The time you hang, the time you rest, the number of reps, the number of sets, and the rest period between sets are all customizable. Its mainly focused on half crimp/open handed repeaters but its a good place to start for a longstanding protocol. The first is the Eva Lopez style, where you do a very low volume of hangs with a lot of rest (like 3 mintues rest between each 10 second hang at the start), and the more classic one of many sets of 6 or so 10 second hangs with 5 seconds rest between them. 14c). Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing w/ the Eva Lopez max hang protocol. Tyler Nelson's Density Hangs long-duration isometrics can help you improve the quality of your tendons and climbing! Check out Emil Abrahamson's 30d hangboard protocol on YouTube, I've been doing that as my fingers were tweaky, except I did it with isometrics (pulling) so that I could modulate how much I should be pulling depending on how my fingers felt. Force is force. May 23, 2024 · Hangboard Training: What is a Hangboard and How Do You Use it? Hangboards, also known as “fingerboards,” are crafted from wood, polyurethane, or polyester resin and feature various holds carved into their surface. It’s definitely not specific to bouldering (2 mins repeaters) with a high work:rest ratio is more an aerobic power workout. Early in training cycle: repeaters following standard RCTM protocol, 5-6 grips, 2-3 sets per grip. Well when I do repeaters on my hangboard at home I warm up with two sets of 5 pull-ups on the jugs followed by 5 one-rep sets of a 10 second dead hang on progressively smaller edges until I get to my target edge size. Or if you are at a gym hangboarding, most gyms already have pulley systems to use. Hey ya'll, I was wondering if some people in here have tried the "long time under tension" protocol that Tyler Nelson has been mentioning for fingerstrength. . Note: this was discussed before on the sub, but it's been 3 years since than. I've been actively hangboarding for about 8 years now and of course, I started off with the traditional 7-3 repeaters protocol. I did the 3-6-9 protocol for some time and it was my intro to hangboarding. What is your set/rep/duration/rest scheme for max hangs and repeaters? What does the rest of your climbing look like? What size edge are you training on? And The Anderson brothers’ “beginner” hangboard protocol has 50+ reps per workout. Very interesting topic - looking forward to the discussion. According to a couple studies, hangboard repeaters are better for strength in the long run as max hangs plateau. Apr 28, 2020 · Repeaters are a great hangboard protocol that target strength endurance. While thinking all of this it occurred to me that there should be one excercise which would make your recruitment strong Max hangs instead of repeaters (max hangs target strength more effectively) Trades a core session for a hangboard session (3x/week hangboard is reasonable; the core session is probably fluff anyway) Adds a within-week progression for max hangs Pairs lower-volume max hangs with limit sessions, which is likely to help your limit sessions 27 votes, 33 comments. Reading through Beastmaking I noticed that Ned makes a distinction between max hangs and long max hangs. After performance period, repeat. trueNo difference in results as far as I know. He speculates that a 10" max hang is more targeted at My understanding has been that the load of a repeater protocol should not be at the max. e. In 1 month's time, I plan on climbing a few multi-pitch with 7-9 pitches in the 5. 12, there are very few jugs unless the route is super roofy or long. I've tried 7/3 and 10/5 repeaters and even with -40lb on a pulley (so 75% BW) and I just can't complete 6 reps on even a 35mm edgelet alone multiple sets. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Probably one of the biggest things that helped my finger, was that whenever I tried a hard/fingery route, I'd stop climbing, and instead go do a hangboarding session, preventing me from further If you are drilling a hangboard into the wall, just drill another few holes and put the pulley system in. I definitely don't think the 1 minute dead hang on jugs is worth your while. I would suggest doing a maybe 3 cycles or so of the max hangs while getting used to hangboarding, then switch over to repeaters or some form of intermittent hangs. Weight:145-147lbs. Feb 28, 2022 · Learn how Dr. I'll start that by repeaters protocol I mean standard 7s hold + 3s rest x 6/7 for at least 3-5 sets. I bought a Trango rock prodigy training center how do I go about creating a routine? How do I determine what grip positions would be best? I usually train fingers on the hangboard, doing mainly half-crimps one-hangdead hang on the BM2000 center edge with a pulley system (I find it works greatfor building stabilization and lock-off strength) and 2 handed 3-finger drags. Often on climbs around 5. Neither seemed like a good fit starting out, max hangs were too hard to learn a grip type. Now I'm trying to decide between finger curls with a dumbbell, which seems to be uncommon but relatively established, and no hang crimp-ups, by which I mean no hanging with The absolute best hangboard on the planet is a piece of wood nailed to a doorway. I started back in 2016 when I was just in the mid 11 range, at that time the only programs popularized were max hangs or the RCTM repeater protocol. To me it seems like a different approach to gain hypertrophy in the forearm, but more Jan 26, 2024 · Understanding the Routine Equipment and setup To execute Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine, you will need a fingerboard or hangboard specifically designed for the routine. Just do a basic repeaters protocol on easy edges on a hangboard. Apr 8, 2019 · Boost your climbing strength endurance with the most popular hangboard protocol ever! Gains as high as 21% reported after just 4 weeks of training! Hangboard protocol summaries Hey! Whilst doing a lot of research on hangboarding and hangboard protocols, I've found it can get kind of overwhelming. Can I push back on the premise? You started a thing, and your max V-grade outside went up by 2. Next, you probably googled Repeaters and found the 7s/3s protocol, as someone who has done repeaters for over a decade, I think this protocol is antiquated. this means I can't climb for 3 months so I decided to get a hangboard to help maintain myself during the offseason. Besides strengthening your tendons and ligaments, hangboarding provides a secure environment to practice using different holds. Nov 10, 2022 · In addition, there is a whole host of “methods” to use for hangboard sessions such as repeaters, max hangs or long duration hangs—all of which have their time and place. For max hangs you should ideally find your absolute max and then back off by 5-10 pounds, maybe even more since you’re relatively inexperienced with them. Hoping to build anaerobic capacity & maybe hit some hypertrophy Mid training cycle: mix of max hangs & min edge, loosely based on Eva Lopez. In part one of this article, we’re going to guide you through the basics. Max hangs If you only did repeaters, you would see significant gains in your grip strength. Help with finger training What do yall think the best mix/ cycle for hangboard training that optimizes strength as well as injury prevention. Combine that with an inappropriate protocol and limits on edge sizes (dependent on hangboard type), then injuries start. I'll transition back to cycles of real max hangs, and then repeaters in a few weeks. probably better for a sport climber. Feb 11, 2021 · A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground Mostly I was worried about whether the entire thing was isometric (hence comparable to the hangboard), or if there was a concentric portion to consider. Repeaters are ok, but I tend to have friction issues with only 3 seconds to chalk up. When I first started hangboarding, I purposely worked towards my 90% weight for about a month before actually doing my 90% weight more consistently. If you do want to incorporate hangboarding then start with a simple protocol - max hangs, or repeaters, and give that a go for 4-6 weeks and track your progress. The idea behind repeaters is to mimic the load and recovery cycle of redpoint climbing. I would highly recommend reading Will Anglins article on repeaters on the Tension website. Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment [deleted] • [removed] Reply reply justcrimp • In reality, any use of the fingers via climbing, hangboard, or whatever else type of finger work are going to stimulate tendon and ligament adaptations. May 9, 2019 · Cameron Hörst demonstrates the "7/3 Repeater" protocol for developing greater finger strength-endurance for hard rock climbing and bouldering. Hi everybody, after having tried a max hang and repeaters protocol, I think I will switch to a Steve Bechtel 3-6-9 ladder protocol. Good protocol: use Restructuring in your "off" phase, Repeaters as you transition into training, and Max hangs to stiffen before a performance period. Be careful with small crimps - better train weighted repeaters and max hang only on bigger grips (18-20 mm edges). However, I've noticed there's a lack of beginner-friendly hanging routines. These boards typically have finger pockets or edges that allow you to perform the exercises effectively. Holy grail of hangboarding Guys, I think I found it! I was just going on with my routine doing the No-hangs protocol from Emil Abrahamson's recent video. 5 year ago but with 8s rests instead 3 and still final sets were Yet another hangboard question! I finally got a beastmaker 1000 and I’ve been doing some of the easier beastmaker app protocols (though they’re pretty intense and long). I would definitely second the 7:3 repeaters, look on the Crimpd app from Lattice for some ideas (I use the 70% workout for power endurance). Sharing some hangboard training routines for every level English is not my first language, excuse me for any typos or mistakes. FWIW, when I was climbing around your level I was doing the rock prodigy program which has you take 4 weeks off climbing during your hangboarding phase to focus on it. Which one depends on how often you still want to climb I guess, but if you want stronger then work strength. But some reasons people do it: Pinchblocks! Isolate your weaker hands fingers, or when you need to step it down on one hand due to injury. FWIW, Some studies show that increasing sets is the most effective way to trigger muscle growth. If you’re looking for structural adaptations in the form of muscle growth you probably want more volume than 7/53 protocol. To me, it's like telling a cyclist to begin barbell squat training with 130% of their body weight on the bar. The hangboard protocol I decided to follow is the 7:3s 40% deadhang repeaters on the Crimpd app (10 sets of 6 7:3s repeaters at 40 percent of max load, one minute rest between sets). (my trainer said 3 times max at that time). Repeaters are better for hypertrophy, which a newer climber may benefit from--if you then transition to max hangs then you'll have more muscle to learn to recruit. All this is done while I stretch/do other warm up stuff. This is a nice and easily storable solutions. g. We know that different rest times will alter the emphasis between recruitment and hypertrophy. On the first day I hung 241lbs, and on the final day I hung 278lbs. Do something like 7"|3" * 10 reps for 3 sets, 3 times a week. So that might be the best way to increase stimulus as you Its not risky if you do it correctly. The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago, and I wanted to write up something on it. Now that you’re ready to get into some hangboard training, let’s look at the three main types of hangboard training methodologies: max hangs, repeaters, and long duration hangs. I'm possibly thinking making those 2 days just straight up max pull instead of more repeaters and making the 5 repeater sessions slightly higher intensity by adding 5-10kg depending on how rested I feel. I have used no hangs as rehab from a finger injury for 3 months,1 year ago. The other 20 days I did the protocol twice a day, 6. But some well-conditioned climbers want a bit of variety in their hangboard training, and for that reason, we have max hangs. Most hangboard info on this sub is focused on high-intensity work such as repeaters and max hangs, so I wondered others' thoughts on this. My favourite protocol is a super set of 1 max hang 10-13 seconds on followed by 1 to 3 pull ups at same weight, then rest 3 minutes and then repeat. The Anderson Bros recommend 2 full days of rest after one of their hangboarding sessionsare you doing their full repeaters protocol with 6-7 grips then trying to climb the same day? Their protocol is aimed at finger strength and hypertrophy during a strength phase of a linear program, and it's supposed to be completely fatiguing. I know strength gains on the hangboard should be slow and controlled but still want to make the most of it. Feb 22, 2020 · In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. Note that you will eventually plateau doing just a max hang/min edge protocol like this. Would it help to switch from Steves Bechtel's hangboard ladder program to a standard repeaters (7/3) protocol for 3 weeks prior to this trip? What do you guys think about the 7/53 protocol. May 15, 2019 · Finger training on a hangboard is one of the most basic and effective ways to improve climbing performance. At home strength workout day: Warming up, Repeaters and then Off-the-wall strength protocoll (Weights, Bar, TRX) With no training history on hangboarding - I would start with repeaters. Max hangs — Most common form of max hangs is probably 3-5 sets of 7-10s holds, used for any number of different grips Updated — There are more out there now such as 5on / 5off and other variations of work:rest ratios, but these still Regarding my hangboard experience, prior to my injury, did a full RCTM cycle of 7-3 repeaters (10 sessions). If you want to train nonlinearly just switch to a max hang Not climbing, but I had spent last little while doing wrist stuff from armwrestling training, and then when trying either the sloper on my hangboard or boulders I’ve noticed a huge increase in my capability. I'd do repeaters for the first 4 weeks, max hangs the next 4 weeks, but only do one protocol, and only once during the day. * Emil's protocol: Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years Lately I have been considering switching my hangboard protocol (I've been on a repeater protocol pretty much every training season for many years now) to max hangs. Not much, as I often climb outside or in a home gym. Is there any reason to hang on a hangboard from relatively easy holds for extended periods of time? say 50 seconds then take a… Mar 16, 2019 · Hangboarding, repeaters, training cycles, 4x4s, Campus Board Training It’s possible to drown in the detail but the #1 take home message is this: it is necessary to cycle your climbing training (not staying with one protocol too long) if you want to avoid a plateau. So ye, probably don't hangboard more than 3 times a week and go outside as much as you can. 10 (6b) grade and would like to work on my endurance prior to the trip. Hangboard repeaters on a large edge, progressively smaller edge and more max hang style until I'm recruited. I think my ongoing cycles are going to be Density - Light "max" hangs - real max hangs - repeaters - hangboard rest. The general consensus is that beginners should avoid Hangboard training for at least a year to prevent injuries. One – Repeaters: Complete eight hangs, resting between hangs for two to five minutes. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance. IMO, the results on the hangboard matter much less than the results on the wall. the repeater protocols I tend to do 7:5 or 10:5, I like the extra 2 seconds for breathing and chalking. After the injury is over, doing it consistently made my fingers feel much healthier, less tweaky and eventually not tweaky at all. I do max hangs and then also dynamic 4-8 minute sets no hanging (fingers moving around on hangboard, feet on chair) to build a real solid pump. I have not had good experiences with standard 7/3 repeaters so I was gonna try concentric exercises combined with heavy repeaters (5x6/10). Having recovered from injuries with and without doing the protocol, I can confidently say that personally, it has really helped recovery. If you think about a redpoint crux section, it might take a minute or so to move through a 15-foot section of a cliff. Simulates climbing. I am starting to hangboard, and I am kind of stuck between 2 styles of hangboarding routine. time under tension is 40 seconds per set rather than 42 seconds) and benefits as the 7/3 protocol described above. I like the 10sec hang 50 sec rest protocol because it seems to be in between. If you’ve got sweaty hands that require frequent chalking, then this is the Repeater protocol for you! It will provide virtually the same training stimulus (i. A local coach has been putting it into some training plans and I wanted to collect some feedback on this specific protocol as described in the picture. Dec 17, 2021 · The Strategies There are a million-and-one methods for to hangboard, but these are a few that are accessible. Also, I find that slopers are the most sensitive to humidity when it comes to repeater hangs, while on max hangs I still have plenty of chalk left before the end of the hang. So, my main question is: Assuming this protocol is sound, Can't we recommend a protocol like this I would also like to train on my hangboard once a week but unfortunately between being a key worker, raising/training my puppy, actually climbing and other life stuff I have extremely limited free time. 2019 The test: 10 second max hang on 18-20mm edge half crimp. According to the book, 5-15s max hangs are great for neuromuscular recruitment but don't provide as much stimulus to strength as 20s "long" max hangs. So what is the best way to spend an hour or so on a hangboard? However after having read a few articles on hangboard training I'm wondering if I should switch to a "Max Hang" protocol instead of working on "repeaters" which are more geared towards sports climbing. Repeaters for some reason dont really build much endurance at all for me. Description of the hangs: Max hangs: 7-10 second holds, 2:30 to 3:00 min breaks, adding weight (if needed) to get failure within that time frame. Nov 21, 2022 · If you’re unsure of exactly how you can adjust and manipulate factors like these to your advantage, check out Part 1. 2 sessions of 2 hangs Now take a week off fully, then retest at 15 seconds, rinse wash repeat. I have done also max hangs and repeaters in the past, but hasn't really seen the results to be as great as I'd wanted. Over 30 days I missed 3-4 days, 2 of which I climbed outdoors. I was originally going to swap between repeaters and 7-53 protocol. Ideally, failure will occur on the final hang This method works well for either weighted or unweighted hangs, though is optimal for weighted hangs. Max hangs have been great for getting really strong and powerful, but they take forever when you're resting and I would like to hit my endurance a bit more. One question: Are you referring to repeaters with 5-6x 7sec on / 3sec off with 70-80% maximum added weight? I know that many people - and also from anectodal evidence - that this protocol brings significant strength gains (measured with Max Hangs after protocol execution). Started climbing Feb. I currently project Font 7A/V7. If it gets too easy, add weight. Should I be switching it up or is it good to just keep banging my head against the wall? I feel like I might be starting to plateau but it Hangboarding (Repeaters): Adding weight that causes me to fail reps vs. Reply reply mmeeplechase • I've been doing them on the 33mm holds on the beastmaker 2000. What do you guys think? How do you progress with the weight on the hangboard? trueHey, I want to get into a few weeks of finger protocol focused on hypertrophy. btw. Therefor, I've tried to make summaries for the most popular hangboard protocols, in an attempt to make it more digestible for climbers less familiar with them. For me personally, 7/3 repeaters x 6 reps doesnt really do anything to help me sport climb. I personally am a big fan of 6s on, 6s off for 6-12 reps for 3-6 sets. I continued to improve for a long time using the linear approach, just increasing the loads. I follow the Crimpd protocol which actually gets you to hang about 90% of your actual max but you can easily reduce this number depending on how you're feeling. I am considering doing one arm timed pulls with the Tindeq with the idea that it would be easier to get a true max "hang" since I am not limited by a fixed weight added to myself. Ever board with weird and interesting holds are things you'd be better off just climbing to work with. I know it's just another hangboard protocol which will work if you do it correctly, but how it is compered to the max hang protocol for example. 6 days I did the protocol only once. The total hangboard volume depends on your climbing volume, the type of climbing, individual ability to recover etc. I stuck to the protocol pretty well. Using a standard beginner repeater hangboard protocol (7-6-5 per set, 2 sets) I burn out towards the end of the second set and be unable to do a strict finish, but with half an hour rest I can do the full second set no problem. Overall, this was a solid summary from u/nauticaljack Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. Only thing I'm scared of is my fingers and tendons not being ready to handle the stress of a max-hang training cycle right off the bat. My session volume ranged from 4–11 "hard" sets plus 2–5 warmup sets (but I didn't track warmups). It doesn't leave any option for pull-ups at home though. All that matters is that you're using a good edge size (~20 mm) and that you are barely completing the exercise. Any thoughts on the 7:13 intermittent hangboard protocol? Anybody has tried it and has feedback? I heard of it through… I am a v5 climber that doesn't have access to a gym during the summer. The goal with this protocol is to perform a set of 10-second hangs, each of which takes you close to failure. Or, you know, climb outside on those pumpy routes. New comments cannot be posted. Does anyone tried to mix up resting times in order to have every week one session more focused on recruitment and one session more focused on hypertrophy? Does it make I 100% agree with using the hangboard for rehab. I tend think repeaters are relatively risky compared to some other hangboard workouts. I'd say ditch the repeaters for some sort of max hang protocol. But max hangs help more with injury prevention. I do not have data to support this assertion-- I base it in part on physiology, in part of observation that is weak because I haven't recorded those observations for analysis, and in part on the opinions of those who work more closely to this field Day 6: - Emil’s sub-max protocol Day 7: - 6 sets of 6 reps of 7:3s repeaters with 3min rest between sets on a 20mm The following week will start with Emil’s sub-max protocol. During my injury recovery I was able to periodically work some partial cycles of max hangs, but was always interrupted by injury issues. What y’all think about it? I don’t know if I’m being too intense with this routine. It makes it so much easier to track progress and do repeater hangs. Will severely push your lactate thresholds and with the 3 second off probably work on the mechanisms of removing or metabolising stuff from your forearm muscles by aerobic systems. Thanks for the response! Once / Week: hangboard warmup high intensity hangboard (repeaters or max hangs, don't know which to do) accessory weight training (pull-ups, push-ups, abs) low intensity skills climbing (1-2 routes) What are your thoughts on this idea? For context I am a 30 yr old male , have been back at climbing a year now. This kind of energy system training requires large 13 votes, 28 comments. My question is, should I stop the session as soon as I start to fail, and keep progressing weekly/monthly until I can finish it as 13 votes, 19 comments. Right now, if I strictly follow the app protocol, I can’t finish the entire workout. staying just below, and always completing reps Yeah echoing what I said before, it doesn't matter whether you use 50% or 80% of your max-hang weight for the 7/3/6 repeaters protocol. Using repeater protocol once or twice a week supplemented with Max hangs has been a way for me to actually gain strength in my fingers and forearms over the quarantine, but repeaters are key for replacing that climbing volume. This then means that the climber's minimum intensity is at their bodyweight. The problems for me is that my endurance is so terrible that even on biggest holds on HB it is too hard for my forearms. I have pretty much only been doing the 7-53 protocol though and just doing 20mm with max weight. Then a couple actual max hangs. They helped me greatly regain I'd suggest downloading the crimpd app from lattice, its free, and looking over their hangboard workouts. Jun 20, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jan 11, 2024 · With hangboard repeaters, you perform a series of hangs, each separated by a very short rest. Locked post. Repeaters can be used for max strength (heavy 3 - 5 x 5 sec), endurance (moderate intensity e. Does anyone have any recommendations on what kind of hangboard routine I should use? Should I do max hangs instead? Switch to jugs? From 12/11/20 to 1/22/21 (6 weeks), I had 14 hangboard sessions (1x/3-days) using the same hold/protocol (10s hangs, weighted two hands, slightly under 1-pad). The jug would only come in handy to practice resting on (ie 10 sec on hangboard So long as you get on the hangboard with your weight properly centered, there is no struggle with the angle, but when you initially lift weights with a no-hang device, there would seem to be some wiggle as it shifts from stationary to its balanced position. You want it to be the thinnest edge you can hang on for 13-15 seconds with an open grip. Hey team, I have been trying to hangboard consistently for this entire year 1-2 x weekly. Maybe it gives you some inspiration. I had been climbing semi-seriously for about 3 years when after a couple month hiatus i decided to get back in and give it my all. I started by taking 50-75 lbs off, and slowly worked up from there. Your endurance is probably fine and if it isn't the hangboard arguably isn't the place to be fixing it for you. 5 hours apart. If you find any -and you will-, tell me so I can edit it. But I do all in some way or other depending in the phase if my training. And if you're spending $80-150 on a hangboard, another $20 for a pulley is nothing. Prior PB: the day before was 60lbs added. My lingering finger tweak disappeared within a couple weeks of consistent repeaters. you're renting, so you simply have no means to hang a hangboard in your place. 2-3 grips, 3 sets per grip. What makes you think you're training wrong? I thought the general protocol for 7s on 3s off is about 6 reps. Hanging for 6 seconds and resting for 4 (as opposed to 7 and 3) works a lot better for me because it makes the board more approachable--a single set is doable, and fun! Considering time under tension, the difference between these two protocols is minimal over the course of a set (only 6 seconds). 6/6 or 7/13 repeaters with 6-10 reps per set at 60-80% MVC would put you in a good zone for triggering hypertrophy. I hope you find this useful for you. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. My goal is to have a long term hangboard protocol that will maximize strength gains and help minimize finger injury risk. (I use +10 kg on a 10 seconds max hang with 3 minutes rest, which is about 90% of max, but I use -10 kg on a 6 rep 5 sets repeater protocol with the minute rest, which is about 60-70% of max) Questions: Dec 6, 2022 · Hangboard protocols Repeaters — Most common type of repeater is probably the 3-5 sets of 6x (7 on / 3 off) protocol, used for any number of different grips. Cameron Hörst details the "7/3 Repeater" protocol he used to train-up his finger strength-endurance for his ascent of Lucifer (5. I tried to find some more information on the topic, but it seems like most protocols recommend 5-10s hangs and longer hangs are not often So repeaters, worth the effort or should I just keep plodding away with my max hangs? Any other insights into mixing up hangboard, Id be interested to hear. But when I didn't have access to a home gym, I used to hangboard like two to three times a week for a short period of time. Warm up with light bouldering or ARC. Density hangs can only potentially reduce injury in conjunction with a program with the right amount of frequency, intensity and volume, and when you're not in performance phase where you're aiming to maximize your strength and The repeater protocol workout on the app indicates that you should use 75% of your MAX on a 7 second one-pad hang as your working weight for repeaters. Did someone tried it? It's going to be interesting to share an experience on this. One thing to note is that many rehab protocols involve high-volume, low-intensity exercises which is exactly what that protocol does. 10 x 5 sec) or anything longer than that or in between. Do you know how can I modify this protocol so it will be both beneficial and doable? I tried repeaters ~0. So the training was successful because your results improved. So I figured out my 7 second max on an 18mm edge but unfortunately 75% of my current MAX is just below my BW and I hate fiddling around with pulleys. You can learn how to hangboard with good form more easily with repeaters. Nov 21, 2022 · Everyone wants strong fingers, but not everyone understands just how to do it right. ndwvpegzdldedzzcwcljguwwoofonmtlxbnjnadmnlmspfvijiea