Hangboard protocol reddit. 27 votes, 33 comments.

Hangboard protocol reddit. I already finished 2 Hangboard cycles (first was maxhangs with 3min rest and second 7/3 repeater) with a week rest inbetween. But in reality, be consistent and Jan 26, 2024 · Read our No-Hang routine review. Using repeater protocol once or twice a week supplemented with Max hangs has been a way for me to actually gain strength in my fingers and forearms over the quarantine, but repeaters are key for replacing that climbing volume. Question 2: Following up on that, you'd still wanna follow a common hangboard protocol/Tyler's recruitment pulls and not think about alternating between PIMA/HIMA style hangboard protocols, or? I guess another way of asking is whether the PIMA setup described by Tyler is only for testing, or if that is for training too? Hangboard protocol summaries r/climbharder • There is a 'custom board' section, where you can enter custom edge depths etc. 6 days I did the protocol only once. Pulley deloaded hangboard like fallsapart recommended is better than feet on the ground, but feet on the ground works if there's no other option I did a writeup last year for r/climbharder http The crimpd protocol that you described sounds reasonable to me, it's definitely better to train more consistently on a 25mm edge than to take off weight to try to use the 20mm one. Now I'm trying to decide between finger curls with a dumbbell, which seems to be uncommon but relatively established, and no hang crimp-ups, by which I mean no hanging with I have personally never seen a hangboard protocol that includes hanging from pinches. Using a standard beginner repeater hangboard protocol (7-6-5 per set, 2 sets) I burn out towards the end of the second set and be unable to do a strict finish, but with half an hour rest I can do the full second set no problem. I am in my 6th week now, and am planning on a short deload week before getting into the power phase. com Personally, I followed Bechtel's 3-6-9 protocol, which is a bit more time consuming than the straight 6 x 10 second sets u/OkAdvantage6912 has suggested, but the 3-6-9 ramps up in intensity during the set, which lets you get used to trying hard, which is a skill in its own. I've added the boards you've mentioned to the 'boards to implement' list :) My experiences with Chris Webb Parsons 12 week hangboard protocol The Program Inspired by u/somerandomaznguy 's post on this sub, after hearing about it from a friend and also Mani the Monkey's video about it. However, I've noticed there's a lack of beginner-friendly hanging routines. Second take: Why are you doing a hangboard workout at all? Have you stepped back to ask this question in order to 1) determine if it even makes sense for you right now, and 2) what protocol or approach would best address your reasons for doing a hangboard protocol. . Reply reply mmeeplechase • I've tried no hangs 2x a day with very light load (e. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. Recently I’ve noticed in my climbing that I tend to struggle with tiny holds, which is probably because I usually hangboard 20 mm edges with added weight with a few different grips. My goal is to have a long term hangboard protocol that will maximize strength gains and help minimize finger injury risk. Would it help to switch from Steves Bechtel's hangboard ladder program to a standard repeaters (7/3) protocol for 3 weeks prior to this trip? For two, I do think you can cheat hangboard edges by slightly twisting or nestling in ways you can't on a Tension Block. I quickly got to where I could hang off the smallest hold which is a 12mm crimp. Making people slightly confused is kind of the point. So if you are looking to get max strength, but get your other volume from climbing, you could only do like 3x5 second max hangs twice or once a week. you're renting, so you simply have no means to hang a hangboard in your place. But of course it depends on the severity of the injury. Combine that with an inappropriate protocol and limits on edge sizes (dependent on hangboard type), then injuries start. If you do want to incorporate hangboarding then start with a simple protocol - max hangs, or repeaters, and give that a go for 4-6 weeks and track your progress. Apart from rest, what’s the number one thing/exercise that helped you’re nagging tendon injury heal? I’m at the point where my initial inflammation is down enough to do light climbing without pain, but it doesn’t seem to be getting that much better and it’s still occasionally sore. But some reasons people do it: Pinchblocks! Isolate your weaker hands fingers, or when you need to step it down on one hand due to injury. 10ish. Since I frequently take 72 hrs between sessions this can take a month and a half It depends on what protocols you want to try. This is a nice and easily storable solutions. I've been climbing for 1yr, 5Vs, decent shape, only hangboard trained for like a month, and prefer 25mm for 20-30sec holds vs 20mm for 7sec since it hurts way less. Looking for some advice for my next hangboard protocol. Last point: This is why hangboarding is an interesting phenomenon. The goal: "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. I have had good success with hangboarding to eliminate finger pain. I am 5'9" and weigh 215 lbs. And three, I spend much more time bouldering now (woody or rock), which is great for performance and transfer but does lower the measured strength numbers a bit. Overall, this was a solid summary from nauticaljack: Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. Single 10 second hangs were almost too hard for me, and the 7/3 protocols didn't allow me to rest enough to complete even one full 60-second set. 10 (6b) grade and would like to work on my endurance prior to the trip. I'd recommend starting with "gentler" exercises like rice bucket, putty, rubber bands, and such things first before going into hangboard. Therefor, I've tried to make summaries for the most popular hangboard protocols, in an attempt to make it more digestible for climbers less familiar with them. Hangboard protocol summaries Hey! Whilst doing a lot of research on hangboarding and hangboard protocols, I've found it can get kind of overwhelming. Five Effective Hangboard Training Protocols for Increasing Grip Strength and Endurance. Most hangboard info on this sub is focused on high-intensity work such as repeaters and max hangs, so I wondered others' thoughts on this. I am considering doing one arm timed pulls with the Tindeq with the idea that it would be easier to get a true max "hang" since I am not limited by a fixed weight added I know strength gains on the hangboard should be slow and controlled but still want to make the most of it. Jan 11, 2024 · We detail two training protocols as well as how to find your baseline strength level for this classic hangboard exercise See full list on 99boulders. 9 - 5. Jun 20, 2022 · There are variations of their beginner-int-advanced protocols, but Basically, pick 6-8 different grips (pockets, pinches, crimps, etc), and do 7on/3 off repeaters with weights added or subtracted, as needed per hold to get to failure at the end of 6-7 sets. So, put another way, 42 straight reps of Max force pulls with 3 seconds rest. I usually train fingers on the hangboard, doing mainly half-crimps one-hangdead hang on the BM2000 center edge with a pulley system (I find it works greatfor building stabilization and lock-off strength) and 2 handed 3-finger drags. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any My personal theory has been that a low intensity but relatively frequent protocol leads to better 'active' recovery. May 23, 2024 · Hangboard Training: What is a Hangboard and How Do You Use it? Hangboards, also known as “fingerboards,” are crafted from wood, polyurethane, or polyester resin and feature various holds carved into their surface. I figured as long as I'm staying pain free density hangs could help speed up the process. So long as you get on the hangboard with your weight properly centered, there is no struggle with the angle, but when you initially lift weights with a no-hang device, there would seem to be some wiggle as it shifts from stationary to its balanced position. If you still need hangboard after a few months you can work in hangboard However, most people structuring their training to improve their weakness on the wall is better because they are getting stronger at it, and you are working climbing specific movement at the same time. Hangboards are good to supplement a climbing workout, but it's better in the end to just climb. The main Reddit's rock climbing training community. Anyone come up with a good endurance related protocol that doesn't really require weights? I've recently started doing 10 sets of 10 sec hang with 30 seconds of rest on pretty small holds so that by the last 2 sets I'm going to failure. The official reddit and message board for Steven Low's site and books: Overcoming Gravity 2nd Edition, Overcoming Gravity Advanced Programming, Overcoming Poor Posture, and Overcoming Tendonitis. Ive been seeing a PT who is prescribing various exercises such as range of motion stuff, and rubber Nov 21, 2022 · In fact, we see huge benefits in terms of rehab loading protocols, introducing new hangboard specifics to newer hangboarders, and even approaches in making certain injury-prone fingers robust to injury risk. However, if you can only climb 10a, doesn't sound like you're advanced enough in climbing for it to be safe to hangboard. A general rule of thumb seems to be climbing V5/6 consistently before hangboarding. Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing w/ the Eva Lopez max hang protocol. This then means that the climber's minimum intensity is at their bodyweight. To me, it's like telling a cyclist to begin barbell squat training with 130% of their body weight on the bar. Ever board with weird and interesting holds are things you'd be better off just climbing to work with. tldr; Have been bouldering for three months, lockdown forced me to hangboard. Density hangs can only potentially reduce injury in conjunction with a program with the right amount of frequency, intensity and volume, and when you're not in performance phase where you're aiming to maximize your strength and Thoughts on Hangboard protocol I'm sure we've all seen vids of the lattice team's critical force test. It can actually be used even by people who are resuming their Secondly, after taking a week or so off I would ease back into it. Overall, this was a solid summary from u/nauticaljack Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. Weight:145-147lbs. The general consensus is that beginners should avoid Hangboard training for at least a year to prevent injuries. I went from v8 to sending a couple V10s outdoors. On the first day I hung 241lbs, and on the final day I hung 278lbs. Hi Y'all TL;DR: What's the best portable hangboard/finger trainer that can be used at hotels. Is the new Beastmaking book more than a bunch of hangboard protocols? I’m pretty interested in the “fingers-first” philosophy in training. In their conversation, Steve and Chris agree that hangboarding is generally very safe, much safer than actual bouldering in a gym, because loads can be applied in a controlled way and there is no risk of your feet popping-off. I use a pinch block and lift from the ground, allows for more gradual loading. With gym closures I’ve recently got into doing max weight hangs via 7/53 protocol. But recently I've heard 2 different interviews (in "The Struggle Climbing Show") that went opposite of that. 13 votes, 28 comments. Had a 3 year long shoulder injury (a story for a different time) that I have now been fully healthy from for the last 5 months. I was using the Moon Hangboard for MaxHangs, and the Zlagboard for the CWP. I have been climbing for about 10 months and can climb V2-V3ish and 5. Sep 21, 2023 · Learn a one-handed, advanced hangboard training protocol for developing maximum finger strength. lol I'm relatively new to climbing, I'm at about a year now. I’ve found that I can hang on 10 mm pretty easily but anything less seems to be way more about friction than strength. If not, it's basically a 7min set of 7-3 repeaters, where from each rep you are doing a Max force pull. So this protocol tells 27 votes, 33 comments. So that might be the best way to increase stimulus as you The total hangboard volume depends on your climbing volume, the type of climbing, individual ability to recover etc. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. I typically am for 10-12 sessions in a hangboard protocol. Then it got me thinking, a max hang protocol is almost like training our 1 rep max everytime. * Emil's protocol: Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years I’ve been struggling with synovitis in various knuckles for over a year and I’m now pretty committed to a hangboard and finger roll rehab schedule in an attempt to treat it after coming across this article from Steven Low. Ive got a moderately bad TFCC injury in my right wrist, went to a Dr, was told to immobilize for 6 weeks. Check out Emil Abrahamson's 30d hangboard protocol on YouTube, I've been doing that as my fingers were tweaky, except I did it with isometrics (pulling) so that I could modulate how much I should be pulling depending on how my fingers felt. My idea was that because the fingers are not a major muscle group and are typically not stressed in normal human activities, the baseline amount of blood flow / recovery 'attention' they get from the body is low unless it notices them being put to work. However, germany has a lockdown for more than 3 months now and I used this opportunity to train my fingerstrength on a hangboard. Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. 25-35 lbs) in the same structure as this hangboard protocol, and it was still causing overuse injuries for me. 2019 The test: 10 second max hang on 18-20mm edge half crimp. The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago, and I wanted to write up something on it. So what is the best way to spend an hour or so on a hangboard? Reddit's rock climbing training community. I think it's probably worth reading some articles on tendon rehab in general. Oh also, at 6’2 180 - 185lbs I feel like I’ve seen good finger strength gains going from not hanging 18mm edge to 10lbs for max hangs protocol during hangboard 1 day per week for 6 months Basically, low rest times generally decrease specificity and quality if you're trying to improve endurance. I know that hangboarding generally is nothing for You've already got the info on Esther Smith. Where did you even get that hangboard protocol from? 10s on 50s off doesn't seem particularly good at targeting any particular energy system Give yourself more rest and work at a higher intensity - 3 sets of 10s hand in half crimp and 3 in 3 finger drag, adjust weight added until you're about 80% intensity, give yourself 3 minutes rest. 5 hours apart. 168K subscribers in the climbharder community. Over 30 days I missed 3-4 days, 2 of which I climbed outdoors. I'd suspect if I tried the hangboard protocol which uses 80% of my weight or 40% on each hand which is about 60 lbs or so would cause even more overuse injuries. I never really felt like I got much out of Maisch's max hang protocol for some reason. I recently red that maxhangs are mostly neurological and So I'm reaching the end of my first strength phase, where I have been using the hangboard for RCTM style repeaters. It doesn't leave any option for pull-ups at home though. I have used no hangs as rehab from a finger injury for 3 months,1 year ago. Force is force. I had been climbing semi-seriously for about 3 years when after a couple month hiatus i decided to get back in and give it my all. And the current protocol is to load them during eccentric motions. And to hangboard after warming up. ) In this video, Cameron Hörst details his one-handed, advanced hangboard training protocol for building Hi! I recently listened to the Power Company Podcast 58: Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maish. Discuss any of the books, training, nutrition, and lifestyle. He speculates that I never touched a hangboard until this year, but I started hangboarding because of covid. Owing to neural adaptations I started increasing the loads very quickly. I have not had good experiences with standard 7/3 repeaters so I was gonna try concentric exercises combined with heavy repeaters (5x6/10). Flood the zone with information to make training too complicated and imposing for most people to wade into. Why is the protocol as described better than simply splitting a more standard hangboard workout out over two shorter workouts separated by 6 hours? After reading the associated paper, it seemed like the big takeaway was that the molecular response of sinews had a 6 hr refractive period after experiencing load for 10 mins. Is there any reason to hang on a hangboard from relatively easy holds for extended periods of time? say 50 seconds then take a… Reddit's rock climbing training community. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. FWIW, Some studies show that increasing sets is the most effective way to trigger muscle growth. The first was with Dr Tyler Pretty new to hangboarding, I’ve done a few sessions of 7/3 repeaters once or twice but nothing serious. From 12/11/20 to 1/22/21 (6 weeks), I had 14 hangboard sessions (1x/3-days) using the same hold/protocol (10s hangs, weighted two hands, slightly under 1-pad). I started hangboarding recently with a min edge protocol and found the selection of edges on my hangboard less than ideal. Any supplemental exercises outside of climbing exceed this recoverable volume, and thus increase injury potential without additional benefit. I decided to give the full 12 week program a try. All the gyms closed and I finally put up the hangboard I have had for years but never used. IE do 1 set instead of 2 at first. Depending on the number of sessions you got in you may also consider switching protocol calls. Up until now, when I heard/read about hangboarding the advices were almost always : 1° Don't hangboard when you're a beginner 2° You need to hangboard when you're more experienced (and usually : hangboard the shit out of your fingers the more you go). It's not like doing that protocol plus normal training. Improve your climbing abilities, finger health and develop a stronger grip with this innovative approach. (This article was originally published in December of 2020, but theis advanced hangboard training technique still rings true today. Trying to clear some things, but please refer to this excelent article as solid advice. In 1 month's time, I plan on climbing a few multi-pitch with 7-9 pitches in the 5. I hope you do too! Good luck! This type of thing is also true of connective tissue, but the question is whether this stimulus suggest by the twice a day protocol results in sufficient response to improve climbing either through increased strength of tissue or increase tissue health which allows for more training. The first is the Eva Lopez style, where you do a very low volume of hangs with a lot of rest (like 3 mintues rest between each 10 second hang at the start), and the more classic one of many sets of 6 or so 10 second hangs with 5 seconds rest In reality, any use of the fingers via climbing, hangboard, or whatever else type of finger work are going to stimulate tendon and ligament adaptations. In a brace and can still hangboard (with neutral wrist position) with no pain. g. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I suppose most of the gyms will be closed or fairly limited and I'd love to keep training at least home. If it’s just a compelling tag line then I think I’ll pass. If it gets too easy, add weight. What y’all think about it? I don’t know if I’m being too intense with this routine. Started climbing Feb. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Gyms are still closed, weather good be better so I'll start my third cycle in a couple of days. I made good progress in both. Dedicated to increasing all our… Hi, I'm doing research for a most versatile hangboard for the upcoming winter. I stuck to the protocol pretty well. Started with: 3 sets of 3 reps 7/53 w/ half crimp +45lbs on 20mm 3 sets of 3 reps 7/53 w/ 3 finger drag +10lbs on 20mm 3 sets of 3 reps 7/53 w/ pinch block 25lbs 3 minutes rest between sets and 5 minutes Hello I couldnt climb since beginning of November cause of Covid and shitty weather. You want it to be the thinnest edge you can hang on for 13-15 seconds with an open grip. What most versatile hangboard would you recommend and why? Cheers trueHey, I want to get into a few weeks of finger protocol focused on hypertrophy. 6/6 or 7/13 repeaters with 6-10 reps per set at 60-80% MVC would put you in a good zone for triggering hypertrophy. This is best for recruitment and nervous system. They helped me greatly I currently project Font 7A/V7. Supercharged collagen. I can now max hang on a 30mm edge for 7 seconds and on a 25mm edge for 2 I would also like to train on my hangboard once a week but unfortunately between being a key worker, raising/training my puppy, actually climbing and other life stuff I have extremely limited free time. Maybe it gives you some inspiration. Have had great results when I was hangboarding. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. The article talks about the different phases, be aware that the climbing around the rehab is dramatically reduced. Basically stretch your fingers by hanging with your feet on the floor (on an hangboard or even a door frame). So, my main question is: Assuming this protocol is sound, Can't we recommend a protocol like this Anyway, my question is: is this normal? I've been doing the 2x daily Emil Abrahamsson hangboard protocol for the last month (except only once daily, and not on climbing days) to help improve recruit these muscles since any more intense protocol is too difficult and I end up needing to use jugs to complete the reps/sets. What do you guys think? How do you progress with the weight on the hangboard? Hey team, I have been trying to hangboard consistently for this entire year 1-2 x weekly. For the past month I’ve just been doing the following about 2-3 times per week. Lately I have been considering switching my hangboard protocol (I've been on a repeater protocol pretty much every training season for many years now) to max hangs. Should I be switching it up or is it good to just keep banging my head against the wall? I feel like I might be starting to plateau but it Really weird that people who sell hangboard programs believe everyone should hangboard. Is there a certain grip I should be using to maximize friction on these tiny holds? More So a week ago I saw the research paper uploaded here where it compared different hangborad protocols, none of them were max hangs. A lot! or at least enough as it does not trigger the injury. I really like the Steve Maisch protocol for how effective and simple it is. You shouldn't push yourself too hard because you'll end up just injuring yourself or developing tendonitis. trueNo difference in results as far as I know. Background: 32 years old, started climbing 8 years ago. Your tendons might not be ready for the stress at this level; a Dec 6, 2022 · The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago (as of this article, ~5 years ago), and I wanted to write up something on it. Emil’s “hangboard twice a day” protocol is probably the way to go. Learn five effective finger training protocols for climbers, as well as nutritional secrets for tendon health and strength gains. Prior PB: the day before was 4 types of hangboarding protocols (just for clarity): Max hangs – as much weight as you can, lots of rest between reps, few reps each session (example: 7 seconds on, 2 minutes rest, 5 sets, 90% of max weight) – lots of rest between days. I am starting to hangboard, and I am kind of stuck between 2 styles of hangboarding routine. I have pretty much only been doing the 7-53 protocol though and just doing 20mm with max weight. Just got a beastmaker 1000 from a friend and I’m trying to decide on a protocol to follow. Jan 9, 2025 · I would really like to purchase a free standing training rack from a somewhere like workshop1950 to attach hangboards/holds to, but I'd like to see if there are any easier options for training before purchasing as it is a little pricey. May 15, 2023 · If you’re totally new to climbing or feel intimidated by high-intensity hangboard protocols, Emil’s protocol is a virtually risk-free way to build confidence with fingerboarding positions, allowing you to start with as low of an intensity as you want with no extra gear required. Does anyone have thoughts on this? I was able to find a short discussion about this on an old mountain proj forum with Hello, ive been bouldering for about a year now, maybe a little more, and im looking for a hangboard. My session volume ranged from 4–11 "hard" sets plus 2–5 warmup sets (but I didn't track warmups). It's better aim the hangboard training specifically toward the endurance you're trying to build and rest enough so you get quality reps building that endurance. After the injury is over, doing it consistently made my fingers feel much healthier, less tweaky and eventually not tweaky at all. Besides strengthening your tendons and ligaments, hangboarding provides a secure environment to practice using I personally do a lighter weight density hang hangboard protocol a few weeks after I get a pulley injury to help rehab them, but I’ve been using a no hang block recently for it to control it better. Grip strength is essential for bouldering and sport climbing. At that point, I decided to switch to the Eva Lopez's MaxHangs protocol for 4 weeks, followed by the Chris Webb Parsons' protocol for the next 4 weeks. I don't recall the The absolute best hangboard on the planet is a piece of wood nailed to a doorway. Regarding my hangboard experience, prior to my injury, did a full RCTM cycle of 7-3 repeaters Reddit's rock climbing training community. Set up: we define long-duration hangs as anything over 30 seconds of continuous hanging at 30-70% of maximum intensity. I was originally going to swap between repeaters and 7-53 protocol. Having recovered from injuries with and without doing the protocol, I can confidently say that personally, it has really helped recovery. He speculates that a 10" max hang is more targeted at The hangboard I'm thinking of getting (would love some feedback on this): Monolith Hangboard Current lift maxes: 180 Overhead press max Pullups +25 lbs x 10 285 bench max Background: I am a 23-year-old climber with a powerlifting/strongman background. My understanding is that currently tendons rehab best under stress. One thing to note is that many rehab protocols involve high-volume, low-intensity exercises which is exactly what that protocol does. In any case I don't think of it as a problem that needs solving. Seems like there’s an abundance of programs that all are fairly different, Steve Maischs, 753, the beastmaker protocol on their site etc. Which protocol do you think is the best for a person who is just starting out with a hangboard? 19 votes, 20 comments. Day 6: - Emil’s sub-max protocol Day 7: - 6 sets of 6 reps of 7:3s repeaters with 3min rest between sets on a 20mm The following week will start with Emil’s sub-max protocol. Beginners should not hangboard because a reasonable volume of climbing maximizes their adaptive potential. But Feb 11, 2021 · A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground Eva Lopez' minimum edge protocol is awesome and my favorite of the max hang type protocols. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. I think I’ll buy the book if this concept is significantly expanded upon. Hit 20mm, should I focus on endurance or strength? Hello, I started with indoor bouldering last summer and quickly fell in love with it. My current powerlifting training In the past I could never motivate myself to hangboard because popular workouts all felt too difficult, either physically or logistically. It seems like hell. Hangboard to rehab works with weights and pulleys to remove weight. Most of Tyler's job is making simple things difficult so that people will pay $400 for a list of things to do. If you’re looking for structural adaptations in the form of muscle growth you probably want more volume than 7/53 protocol. Im not super strong yet, but i can comfortably hang from the moon hangboards 20mm edge, and most of the holds on the beastmaker 2000 seem a bit too deep. The other 20 days I did the protocol twice a day, 6. jqme cebtzsq koy ivgatnmr xpgi fpmxy wrgofmk fbammz zlrnrdo zfkedd