Best belay carabiner for grigri reddit. So they're less than ideal for a first device.

• Best belay carabiner for grigri reddit. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Make sure you read the little booklet that comes with the device and select a belay carabiner the manufacturer recommends! So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. Jun 18, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You’ll soon be able to tell the best shape for each area of climbing from belay to quickdraws to anchors. Here's my (largely uninformed) opinion: I belay with an ATC Guide mostly. the Petzl Reverso. Generally I belay lead with the regular-friction mode, unless I expect the climber to be hanging a bunch, in which case I use the high-friction side in order to be able to hold them Dec 4, 2020 · An incredibly awesome in-depth beginner's guide to rock climbing carabiners. The clepsydra is an super belay biner, super convinient to use on a ATC w. My advice is: Get a mammut smart, a petzl grigri, a beal birdie or whatever other assisted belay device you can find because with them you will be able to use with any carabiner and virtually any type of rope (8mm to 11mm) in any condition (Old or New) without having to worry if the device will actually work. Reply nubbled21 • Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs I use one of those BD magnetrons for my Gri gri. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). And one that isn’t the size of my face. Here are our in-depth reviews. The smart is my favourite belay device. You made an excellent choice! Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. 6x 11cm, 6x 17cm). Nov 9, 2023 · According to WeighMyRack's user base the most wanted and owned carabiners are from Edelrid, CAMP, Petzl, Grivel, and Black Diamond. My boyfriend and I have gotten into climbing and recently got belay certified by the gym we climb at. I have the same carabiner, and enjoy its mechanism while cleaning with a leash outside. Neither of them. But it can be an appealing belay device because it offers a smoother, faster descent. See how well it fits in your hand and how easy the gate is to open. : r/ClimbingCircleJerk Scan this QR code to download the app now     TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity RESOURCES POPULAR POSTS Go to ClimbingCircleJerk r/ClimbingCircleJerk r/ClimbingCircleJerk Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour MembersOnline • cadolt Jan 28, 2023 · Another belaying carabiner, the Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock has everything you need to support yourself and your fellow climbers. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. I hear that the grigri petzl is particularly good. Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. I trust and enjoy them plenty for other applications, but I find you're not always in the best position to do all the pulling and twisting that's needed with the 3 stage ones. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Also, can the grigri be used for rappelling as well? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A wiredog369 • Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. Its locking gate features a twist-lock mechanism to reduce accidental openings. See full list on climbernews. In a very rare sequence of events you can undo a screw/locking carabiner and it’s less safe. 1. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. Bd for my random lockers, and the Beal Belay locker for my belay devices. I wouldn't choose to use one of the other devices unless I had double ropes. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. Frequently do this with my Grigri when lowering people heavier than me so I have more control on my 9mm rope. Step 3: The leader takes the brake strand from the GriGri, and places this rope in a second locking carabiner creating a second masterpoint on the anchor. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. Not carabiner sensitive, reliable, bomber, tens of thousands in use over decades. As if for some reason you forget to put your belay loop behind the anti-cross loading mechanism, it will just harmlessly be pulled down into the bottom of the carabiner via the spring loaded gate that opens downward and then locks moving upward. Here are our in-depth reviews! May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. Carabiner Safety The main reason to use a special carabiner for your belay device is to avoid cross-loading. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. So they're less than ideal for a first device. It’s nice to get a mix of long and short draws (e. Back then it was just screw lock carabiners and the 8shape belay device. I typically only boulder but it’s nice to have everything with me if I decide to top rope or lead instead. I use what I think is best in the circumstance. Gri-gris are designed for people that aren't aware enough to belay with an ATC. If you have a GriGri II, this carabiner fits perfectly, especially if you are on the heavy side and use a thinner rope. Devices? Gri gri for the gym / single pitches and the Petzel Reverso for everything else. If anyone is going to belay off a non-locking carabiner, it's going to be a Gri-gri user. I use the plume primarely for acenders since i like to use locking biners in my setup. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore As a first belay device. Got to try this out and really enjoyed it: Belays almost identically to GRIGRI 2 Easier to feed slack quickly Can be used with or without belay carabiner When used without it sit closer to harness so easier to feed long pulls of slack and never cross loads Nice addition to the world of belay devices! First one I’d consider using instead of GRI. Of the newer assisted locking devices the Alpine Up seems to be the crowd favorite on Mountain Project these days, but it's the same size/weight as a Grigri. Got a used grigri, anything I should look for where it wouldn’t be 100% to use anymore? Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. After many years of using an ATC I finally switched over to a GriGri for rock climbing. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. Jul 11, 2024 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. You can top rope belay left handed with a grigri, just have to switch safely when ready to lower. I like the Ocun Condor HMS, and other carabiners like this like the DMM Ceros and Metolius Gatekeeper. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. I would say its not the most protective piece for gri gri use though… when i bought my first carabiner to belay, i was told that the shape and size of petzl’s William-screw lock carabiner adds some safety as well as reduced wear while using a gri gri. Here is a good video highlighting the two common methods of belay with a grigri. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints Important Specs 5 carabiner in belay loop? Okay, move up a bit and give it a clicky clacky to make sure carabiner is locked Okay, move up a bit and Brake handle on left? Pull on climbers side rope with left hand to check grigri cam follow rope (which is already in left hand from step 3) by giving it a flick to make sure it’s going to my climber and isn’t tangled under the rest of the rope (follow the rope They planned on single strand rappels using the grigri? Usually on a big wall you'd have a reverso or some other tube device for the rap/backup belay device to the grigri. I'm in need of a belay device (currently own a Grigri and a standard ATC), and was considering the Megajul vs. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Important Specs 3. 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. Buy a tube-style belay device and learn how to use it. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I wasn't paying that much attention to the orientation of the Grigri to the rope and I can't remember if it happened as a result of Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. I don't belay with D-shaped biners for this reason, and I think the wider more even basket of a pear I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. ), what is your opinion of the device after using it for a while? I am in the market for a new one, and am wondering which one will be best down the road. What do you think? Closed• total votes GriGri's are safe to use in icy conditions GriGri's are an accident waiting to happen in icy conditions Voting Usually belay with a GriGri just for the added backup but carry an ATC Guide anyway for rapping and guide mode belay. The carabiners are easy to clip and the dogbone is nice and thick so it doesn’t cut into your hand if you need to grab a draw. I have a set of 12. Despite it being a non-moving part and a non-weight-bearing part of the device, it's hard to predict how this will affect the structural integrity when your climber takes a whip. In neither of these methods do you need to swap the direction of your hand on the brake rope so I don't really understand your trouble or how you must be holding the grigri PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. I’d also recommend getting a pair of belay gloves (any pair of leather work gloves will do) and belaygles. Having someone belay with a device they’ve never used before and no I'm very paranoid about belaying accidents, and would like to find a device that can be used as a backup for a belay, to lock on the rope if the primary belay device fails and sets the rope free (whether due to user error, or being knocked unconscious due to rockfall etc. What brand in particular. The Best Device to Use in a Pinch I use a grigri for all belaying - if I get incapacitated I want the device to still work. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. single and double ropes. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. Slight detail (and correct me if I’m wrong) but the carabiner gate should be facing left ie away from the right hand moving up and down. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset. When I used my Petzl Atache or BD Rock Lock, my Grigri would constantly cross load the carabiner. Thanks in anticipation! I personally would not let anyone belay me with a DIY modified belay device unless it was retested and certified. A Grigri is a belay device that comes with an assisted break feature, meaning if your BF accidentally lets go of the rope while belaying the device will catch (stopping the rope and preventing the climber from falling). Mar 1, 2023 · Top 5 Carabiner for Grigri Reviews 1. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. However, a “D” carabiner might give you slightly better performance, and be more in line with Petzl’s guidelines. The gridlock is a neat system, but I like its a bit overkill for use with a tube style belay device. Get an ATC and use that, learn to belay with that. May 4, 2021 · To be clear, I’m not saying it's dangerous or incorrect to use an HMS carabiner with a Grigri. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC Important Specs 4. Personally I love my DMM Pivot—it's overkill for top-roping, but spend the extra $10 now and you'll avoid having to buy a new device once you get into multipitch. 5 days ago · Take a look at the top 10 picks for the best belay and rappelling carabiners for your partner so you can have the best rappelling and belaying experience possible. Nite Ize LSB3-01-R6 S-Biner SlideLock Dual Locking Carabiner, Size #3, Stainless https://a. Alternative Auto-locking belay devices (beyond the Gri-Gri)? If anyone uses an auto-locking device other than the gri-gri, can you talk about your experience with it and its pros and cons? Are there devices that have a guide mode for multi-pitching that also lock off well on lead? Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. In response to the two grigri post, I raise you this. Our team of climbing experts One thing you might consider if you want to be extra safe is placing one of your devices on the harness tie-in points instead of the belay loop, passing a carabiner/quicklink through them. I got a DMM Ceros carabiner to prevent the possibility of cross-loading while belaying. I have been using a regular tube ATC to belay and am comfortable with it, but if he’s hanging I have to use a good amount of arm strength to hold him. Grigris can encourage lazy, and poor belay habits. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. Using a grigri as your belay device greatly simplifies a number of self-rescue scenarios. I find that the Petzl Spirit Screw Lock or BlackDiamond Positon/Nitron Screw Gate are better for the Grigri. The Grigri is the best IMO. For top-roping indoors, all you need is a harness (any harness will do, so long as it's by a reputable company and fits), a belay device, and a locking carabiner. If possible, practice belaying with friends belay devices to get a feel of what works best for you. Petzl now strongly recommends the second "new" method, so if you're learning new techniques go for this one rather than the"classic" method. Is there a particular carabiner you like to use for the grigri or would any locking carabiner do the job? Dec 13, 2023 · The GriGri can also put a lot more weight on the rope: “For the general public…what they want to do is a [single rope] rappel, which puts four times the amount of weight on half as much rope,” said Delap. ATCs make better belayers, even when you switch over to a grigri. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. The shape of the FREINO helps resist rotation and bad positioning. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Or, why I owe my buddy a new gri gri. ). May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned it is better to use a redirected belay from the harness. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. 3rd hand? hollow block Trad gear? BD cams and hexes, DMM nutts / offsets Lockers / nonlockers? Really anything reputable. So i am asking for some tips. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. Can’t lead belay with a grigri tho so I taught myself to belay right handed. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. "Active assisted braking" is the primary reason people pick Petzl GriGri 2 over the competition. (nevertheless) specifically designed belay carabiners with various kinds of anti-crossloading devices exist and are popular; you could buy one if it would give you more peace of mind. I got it since it's light, cheap, easy to pay slack with, and versatile (guide mode, dual-strand rappels, regular- and high-friction modes). I didn't have a locking biner for my GriGri, so I'm using a keyring. In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. But I need someone to recommend me something else as well. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. Now i picked up climbing again and going through the courses, currently i am doing the rock climbing and mountaineering course, to get my verification again, but since then a lot of gear have arisen. Two harnesses, two ropes, over 10 belay devices. It starts with a Type H or HMS connector designed for dynamic belaying using a Munter Hitch or belay device. It's not a TON of extra work to use a tagline and a biner block but it's still a lot of extra work if you can just do a double rap on an ATC/tube. The home of Climbing on reddit. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • You can add more friction when lowering by redirecting the rope down coming out from the belay device with a tiny carabiner attached to your belay loop. A Keylock Nose reduces the chances of rope snagging considerably So I think it's more important in cases where you are running two ropes through your carabiner, like for twin roping or rappelling. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. My worry is that they would not handle frozen/wet ropes well. Pretty proud of myself for thinking this one up. Jan 22, 2025 · No need to carry a belay locker in your pack Orientation is “built in”—device stays reliably upright on your belay loop Belay action is close to the body and ergonomic, with no locking carabiner in the way Feeds silky-smooth with skinnier (~9. co/d/3bFkkAA These are cool, but im guessing he wants whatever 70$ one it is because he thinks that ones cool. I really like it for a belay biner, but I probably wouldn't find it as convenient for other uses. com What is the Best Carabiner to use with a GRIGRI? This chart shows a few of the best options and the reasons behind the choices. rubber banding an open sling Definitely not Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. And yes we are scared of falling. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking. Dave Fasulo (Author of the Falcon Self Rescue book) recommends using a grigri for this reason. Reply reply dogheartedbones • Nail clippers Reply reply marimbaclimb • Sep 14, 2020 · Why Is The Grigri Plus The Best Belay Device For Beginners Over a Standard Grigri? The Grigri Plus is the best beginner belay device because it adds a couple of extra features. Looking at other posts, it sounds like the Juls are the best option to resolve this, but I’m seeing mixed reviews on whether the Jul2 or Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. Here are a few more specialized carabiners that can work well with a Grigri. While that's scary low since you could absolutely generate that in a pretty normal lead fall, it's still 5x-8x a normal bodyweight Team grigri here. All things climbing carabiners demystified!. easy to quickly operate single handed to go in direct. I like the TINY Metolius wire gates for my racking carabiners. . Hey all. Now that ice season is here I am wondering if people use them to belay in the winter. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! I use one that also has the belay gate for my PAS. Aggregated reviews for carabiners are generally meaningless, especially when for an established brand like Black Diamond. Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. :) All the devices you mentioned rely on a carabiner for their assisted breaking function. it does the job, and is fast for clipping and unclipping from my harness. I'll probably get downvoted for this, but this seems like an unnecessary risk for a problem that could Oct 12, 2023 · But why? We’ll discuss each of the 5 (+1) carabiner shapes in order from most available and popular to the least including best uses along with pros and cons. I'm looking to buy my first belay device. A smaller carabiner is generally less useful than a larger one. As usual u/bearbreeder has some great advice below to make sure that you are aware of how best to use an ATC/other belay device before using a grigri as grigris are assisted belay devices, not auto-locking ones. This page is powered by a knowledgeable community that helps you make an informed decision. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. Today, thankfully while not on an actual belay, I was playing around with it, and accidently clipped the cam handle of the Grigri behind the retaining clip on the Ceros. Reply reply zonman831 • (This is masterpoint #1) Step 2: The leader takes the rope leading down to the belayer and attaches a Grigri to the belay loop of her harness with a locking carabiner in the usual way. Having the ropes running through the basket, especial on a pear shaped biner, is definitely their most comfortable position since each has the same amount of bend. With the G+ that can be mitigated. Grigri takes the cake for versatility and multi functionality but if all you want to do is be able to belay in a gym setting, these geometry assisted devices are absolutely the way to go. when belaying with a Grigri The force at the belayer's end of the rope is never anywhere near enough to trouble even a crossloaded carabiner, especially when toproping. g. Anyone who ones an assisted locking belay device (grigri, click-up, mega-jul, cinch, etc. Nov 11, 2023 · Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, and DMM Pivot are probably your best bets out of the 22 options considered. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. But inside my bag I have my harness, belay glasses, two belay devices plus a carabiner, tape, a snack, a mini tripod, and my car keys. This top-belay method was shown on a site discussing Simul-Climbing. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. If you have a climbing shop nearby, it's best to try out the carabiner in person. Petzl Freino Twist-Lock Carabiners The first product is a Petzl carabiner for GriGri that any climber can use. 2mm on down) ropes Less likely to kink a stiff rope than a Grigri thanks to V-groove rope channel that keeps rope in a straight line Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. The grigri is over hyped. Rock!! Or, how I learned not to use one of those new-fangled belay carabiners. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. Besides the Gri-Gri being backwards, does anyone else belay on bolts like this?! Anyone use the Edelrid Megajul for multipitch/top-belays? I heard they can be a bit finicky/sticks when used in guide mode, but not sure how much of that is due to the shape of the carabiner being used with the device. fxrs xkghsx skztka juwli eqdjfz cjvosbu wjpuz dhubt cwejeo vfaeoxnv