Hangboard protocol for beginners. But in reality, be consistent and .
Hangboard protocol for beginners. May 23, 2024 · Hangboards, also known as “fingerboards,” are crafted from wood, polyurethane, or polyester resin and feature various holds carved into their surface. If you’re new to hangboarding, all of the edges might seem impossible. What’s the Best Hangboard for You? The specific hangboard you use comes secondary to the training protocol and the quality of your overall training-for-climbing program. The right hangboard makes a significant difference when you're starting out and need to build grip strength for those tough routes. Use the remaining time to rest. The Finger Strength Training on the Wall protocol is a great tool to bridge the gap between fingerboard training and real rock climbing 15. So, my main question is: Assuming this protocol is sound, Can't we recommend a protocol like this Hey everyone, another 'training protocol tips' thread. Sep 22, 2020 · Take it from the experts on why a hangboard workout is key for strength-training. To hang—or not to hang—is a question of timing, in both the The 7/3 Repeaters are a fantastic hangboard training protocol for climbers of all ability levels, from beginner to elite. The times suggested by the Anderson’s are cycles of 10 second hangs with 5 second of rests for beginners, and 7 second hangs with 3 seconds of rest for intermediate climbers. Take your climbing to the next level with top picks from Beastmaker, Metolius, and more. Many of you are getting to grips with the hangboard for the first time right now. Goldilocks problem). Besides strengthening your tendons and ligaments, hangboarding provides a secure environment to practice using different holds. He speculates that This then means that the climber's minimum intensity is at their bodyweight. g. It is important for beginners to start with lower intensity exercises and gradually progress to more challenging variations as they build strength and technique. Here are three proven protocols for developing more strength in your finger flexors muscles! 1. Aug 12, 2023 · The best hangboard is a perfect tool to get ready for a real climbing experience, but which one should you choose? Here, we reviewed seven top options. e. It doesn’t matter how strong your arms are if you can’t hang onto the hold, and thus hangboarding—or deadhanging, an isometric (static) exercise for finger strength—is invaluable. Finger strength is, perhaps, the only aspect of climbing fitness better trained off the wall rather than on, and yet this doesn’t mean that hangboarding will always be good for your climbing. Focusing primarily on beginner hangboard workout strategies, you'll find tailored advice for Metolius hangboard workout techniques and Beastmaker hangboard workout insights. Which protocol do you think is the best for a person who is just starting out with a hangboard? May 14, 2020 · Professional climber Alannah Yip offers up the beginner hangboard workout to try if you're inside without a wall in sight. Dec 13, 2023 · We'll explore the Hangboard Training For Climbers, hone fingerboard skills, and offer a step-by-step method for becoming proficient. But that then raises a few questions – how do you train on a hangboard, when should you use it, and how frequently? Despite being very simple pieces of equipment, hangboards need to be used properly and with caution to mitigate the Beginners should not hangboard because a reasonable volume of climbing maximizes their adaptive potential. Our Verdict – Best Hangboard for Beginners At a great price, with a top selection of pockets and edges, this is a great hangboard for those who are starting out. Beginner Hangboard Warm-up Routine: Goldilocks problem 🧸🥣 What's an example of a simple hang board routine (< 10-15 mins, supports progressive difficulty, no periodisation) that is a good warm-up before climbing? Everything I try ends up being too hard or too easy (i. Download the app to find the best workouts for you based on your equipment. Or maybe you can hang from the largest edge, but the next size down is way too hard. Any supplemental exercises outside of climbing exceed this recoverable volume, and thus increase injury potential without additional benefit. Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days Emil Abrahamsson 278K subscribers 32K Having recovered from injuries with and without doing the protocol, I can confidently say that personally, it has really helped recovery. "Progression hangboard training guide". The best hangboard routine becomes your secret weapon - a powerful training tool that builds significant finger strength and fits seamlessly into your climbing schedule. I set how to see if this would work for a beginner who's never used a hangboard before. But for beginners, knowing how to start hangboarding, how often to train, and how to mount a hangboard can be daunting. Indicated for intermediate- lo higher-level in finger strength climbers Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Dec 6, 2022 · The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago (as of this article, ~5 years ago), and I wanted to write up something on it. In this video, Cameron Hörst details the “7/3 Repeater” protocol he used to train-up his finger strength-endurance for his ascent of Lucifer (5. After this period though, you may want to specialise your Hangboarding to target specific grip-types and push your maximum Jan 11, 2024 · We detail two training protocols as well as how to find your baseline strength level for this classic hangboard exercise Oct 3, 2022 · Follow along standard hangobard workout 30 minutes. In this episode of our Fundamentals Series we cover the big questions in hangboard training and give you two fundamental training sessions every climbing will need if serious about training. . Flood the zone with information to make training too complicated and imposing for most people to wade into. Nov 21, 2022 · In fact, we see huge benefits in terms of rehab loading protocols, introducing new hangboard specifics to newer hangboarders, and even approaches in making certain injury-prone fingers robust to injury risk. Jul 9, 2025 · Before starting hangboard training, ensure you have adequate finger strength. This can overload tendons unprepared for such intensity. Minimum Edge Hangs Based on research by Eva Lopez-Rivera, this protocol is what I recommend as an entry-level hangboard program (not to be confused with a "beginner’s” program—true beginners shouldn't hangboard train). For example: I started on the Beastmaker 2K large crimps (33mm) then moved to the large Metolius campus rung, which is slightly smaller and overhanging. PS: 3-6-9 Protocol Bechtel recommends multiple grip types, but just focus on the half crimp in the beginning. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. Here's how to get started. Consider adding one or two brief 7/3 Repeater training sessions to your current climbing and training schedule! Pro Tip Jul 15, 2016 · This type of hangboard routine, which has been outlined by many, is a series of hangs of a fixed amount of time with a fixed amount of rest between. Aug 28, 2022 · Implementing a regular hangboard routine into your climbing training can help you push through plateaus and crush your projects. I quickly got to where I could hang off the smallest hold which is a 12mm crimp. Apr 28, 2020 · Hangboard training for beginners to advanced climbers. Using repeater protocol once or twice a week supplemented with Max hangs has been a way for me to actually gain strength in my fingers and forearms over the quarantine, but repeaters are key for replacing that climbing volume. Eva Lopez' minimum edge protocol is awesome and my favorite of the max hang type protocols. After that first cycle, switch to a different protocol. Oct 15, 2021 · A hangboard workout can help experienced climbers increase their grip and finger strength, and confidence on the wall. Read on to learn more about beginner hangboard workouts for climbers. Emil’s video: • Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day Fo Anyway, my question is: is this normal? I've been doing the 2x daily Emil Abrahamsson hangboard protocol for the last month (except only once daily, and not on climbing days) to help improve recruit these muscles since any more intense protocol is too difficult and I end up needing to use jugs to complete the reps/sets. In this article, we will explore the advantages and disadvantages of using a hangboard as a beginner climber, the optimal frequency for hangboard training, the best time to start hangboarding, and essential tips for mastering Nov 21, 2024 · From daily finger health workouts like Emil Abrahamsson's submaximal protocol to pre-climb hangboard warm-ups to pure max strength training sessions, we were able to log a lot of mileage on these boards and rate them on 4 key performance metrics: Variety of Holds (40% of overall score weighting) Comfort (30% weighting) Versatility (15% of Jan 26, 2024 · Can beginners use this routine? Yes, beginners can incorporate Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine into their training. Begin and complete the task or tasks within the one minute intervals. Focused on the way you climb. At $100, it’s a bit pricier than barebones options but still budget-friendly, and it also comes with a training guide (a real advantage for newbie hangboarders). Beginner’s Repeaters protocol Just got a beastmaker 1000 from a friend and I’m trying to decide on a protocol to follow. Beginners should spend months developing general climbing ability before incorporating hangboards as early excessive loading can lead to injury. This provides new stimulation for the muscles and tendons, and staves off a plateau. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Sip a cup of coffee as you learn how to get stronger via hangboard training! Watch episodes 3 and 4 to learn all about effective hangboard training. I started hangboarding recently with a min edge protocol and found the selection of edges on my hangboard less than ideal. The first is the Eva Lopez style, where you do a very low volume of hangs with a lot of rest (like 3 mintues rest between each 10 second hang at the start), and the more classic one of many sets of 6 or so 10 second hangs with 5 seconds rest between them. Aug 24, 2023 · Described by Tension as “an ideal first hangboard for climbers beginning their training journey,” the Whetstone is a thoughtfully designed wooden hangboard whose asymmetric layout and large edge sizes—ranging from 20 to 40 millimeters—are well suited for beginners and intermediate climbers engaged in their first structured hangboard protocols, as well as for more experienced climbers Feb 5, 2022 · Knowing when to start hangboarding—and when to lay off an existing hangboard routing—is key to injury prevention for climbers. Next went to the medium campus rung and lastly to the small campus rung. To get the most benefit from a Repeaters training cycle, it's essential to Apr 7, 2024 · Although the above statement may seem controversial, I can confirm that I made the biggest finger strength gains when I paired hangboard training with regular system wall climbing 14. Our selection of Hangboard Workouts Workout Trainer has a large selection of free hangboard workouts. Read on to learn more. Jan 24, 2023 · Hangboarding for beginners helps climbers build finger strength and endurance. I would like to choose the style that will give Dave MacLeod, this is probably the most nerdy (and I love it) and intelligent educator/coach who demonstrates his own hangboard protocol, warmup, etc. Protocols: We're not aware of one "secret" or "only" way of fingerboarding that's better than anything else out there. Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing w/ the Eva Lopez max hang protocol. This routine is perfect because of that. To me, it's like telling a cyclist to begin barbell squat training with 130% of their body weight on the bar. Seems like there’s an abundance of programs that all are fairly different, Steve Maischs, 753, the beastmaker protocol on their site etc. READ MORE HERE A hangboard is easy on the movement apparatus, so it doesn't get trained as much as your finger strength. When to start hangboarding For new climbers, the most important concern is Jun 10, 2020 · Everyone can learn how to start hangboarding. After the injury is over, doing it consistently made my fingers feel much healthier, less tweaky and eventually not tweaky at all. Learn the basics of how to start hangboarding. com/products/new-hang Oct 26, 2021 · Intro for beginners When we narrow things down, finger strength is the most important physical component of climbing performance. Hang a watch from the bottom of the board or mount a wall clock so that you can look straight at it while training. Tyler Nelson's new effective finger strength active recruitment and muscle coordination protocols to break that climbing plateau! Jan 2, 2021 · A great hangboard is one of the best training tools to improve your finger strength and get a rock-solid grip. In episode 3, Eric details specific hangboard protocols for developing finger strength, strength-endurance, and local aerobic endurance. Apr 24, 2023 · How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide] - YouTube Why is the protocol as described better than simply splitting a more standard hangboard workout out over two shorter workouts separated by 6 hours? After reading the associated paper, it seemed like the big takeaway was that the molecular response of sinews had a 6 hr refractive period after experiencing load for 10 mins. Nov 21, 2022 · Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing capacity, endurance, and strength-to-weight ratio. It depends on what protocols you want to try. Mar 15, 2024 · As Jorg Verhoeven mentions later in this article, full crimps are to be avoided on a hangboard. 1. Jul 5, 2018 · Its price is 18€ if you live in Europe, and 20€ for the rest of countries. Your Safe and Effective Hangboard Workout Now, let's delve into a hangboard workout routine that encourages safety while still promoting growth and progress: The Daily Hangboard Workout Protocol Frequency: Nov 10, 2022 · Hangboarding is one of the most sport-specific strength exercises that you can do for climbing. Pros, Cons, Features and Buyer's Guide. Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or setup needed) ️https://frictitiousclimbing. 3-5 days per week, no more than 2 days in a row (better to have a rest day). I am starting to hangboard, and I am kind of stuck between 2 styles of hangboarding routine. I'd suspect if I tried the hangboard protocol which uses 80% of my weight or 40% on each hand which is about 60 lbs or so would cause even more overuse injuries. Overall, this was a solid summary from u/nauticaljack Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. Most of Tyler's job is making simple things difficult so that people will pay $400 for a list of things to do. Best fingerboard for beginners? It’s hard to choose the best one – there are loads and loads of different boards for all levels. Maybe I can’t hangboard 6 days a week, but I can hangboard 3-4 days a week consistently, and increase the load. To get the intensity right here you want to find a few specific edge sizes that you can hang on with 2-arms for approximately 20-40 seconds. However, I've noticed there's a lack of beginner-friendly hanging routines. A workout guild on how you can use your board to build strength and climb for longer. Here are the 6 best hangboards for beginners in 2020. Indicated for beginners and lower-level in finger strength climbers "Transgression hangboard training guide". Nov 14, 2023 · Introduction Hangboarding is a fundamental training tool for climbers, offering a targeted way to build finger strength and improve overall climbing performance. In this case, you could use either a large joint angle at the elbow or use a fully extended elbow position. Jan 2, 2023 · It’s also a good idea to conclude your fingerboard training with a few sets of the antagonist training of the wrist stabilizers. while also acknowledging the risks to mitigate in form and progressive loading. Making people slightly confused is kind of the point. Hi! I recently listened to the Power Company Podcast 58 : Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maish. Tenso hangboard protocol descriptionAs a general guideline, use a protocol for one cycle (4 to 8 weeks). Overall, this was a solid summary from nauticaljack: Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. Feb 11, 2022 · Wanting to start training but unsure how to approach a hangboard? Neil Gresham - elite rock climber and one of Britain's most experienced climbing coaches - shares his best tips for getting May 3, 2020 · A popular way to train on the hangboard is the Repeaters protocol, which is a series of high-intensity hangs for gaining strength. Feb 10, 2024 · For Beginners: How to Reduce Difficulty For Experts: How to Increase Difficulty Hangboards are an excellent tool for training finger strength, yet the available edges are rarely the exact-right difficulty. 14c/8c+). Combine that with an inappropriate protocol and limits on edge sizes (dependent on hangboard type), then injuries start. Reply reply mmeeplechase • Are you a beginner climber looking to improve your strength and progression? Incorporating a hangboard workout into your training routine can be highly beneficial. After 4-6 weeks of using this protocol we know you will see an improvement in your contact-strength. Mar 29, 2025 · Hitting a strength plateau can be frustrating, whether you climb twice a week or daily. So first and foremost I have read extremely many articles regarding fingertraining and as soon as I believe I do have some understanding regarding it I suddently read another article which disproves the other, or an article that's claiming that x version isn't really optimal, and then another article says that says y isn't either optimal May 9, 2019 · Finger training on a hangboard is one of the most basic — and effective — ways to improve climbing performance. Why Progressive Loading Is Crucial Tendons require gradual exposure to increasing loads to build strength safely. He speculates that a 10" max hang is more targeted at Mar 24, 2020 · MSRP: $140 The Rock Prodigy is an outstanding hangboard that meets the needs of beginner to expert climbers and can keep you psyched for long-term gains. Don’t expect to see immediate results, but if you persist, then you should be noticing solid improvements after four to six weeks – both indoors and outdoors. Mar 23, 2023 · Learn Dr. Feb 11, 2021 · A Staggeringly Successful New Hangboard Routine A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground Noah Walker February 11, 2021 Apr 24, 2020 · This paragraph was a pretty big wake-up call about training and what was possible. Mar 28, 2023 · This is particularly true in terms of a beginners hangboard, for climbers just starting to improve their finger strength. Mar 1, 2022 · Hangboard training is one of the most time-efficient ways to improve finger strength. Here is a deep dive on most of the priorities to think about to get the mos Dec 23, 2020 · We’ll go over some important form cues, a thorough warmup, and a full beginner and intermediate hangboard workout. Looking at the board, you might Hangboard workout 2: Density Hangs Density hangs are the lower intensity, longer duration portion of this program. Mar 25, 2023 · We also talk to an expert who explains how it's possible to see great results in strength from a low intensity hangboard protocol. The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago, and I wanted to write up something on it. Keep in mind, however, it’s harder than it looks and can lead to injury if done improperly. Back to climbing you'll be able to cling to holds in positions that are hard on the movement apparatus a you will injure your fingers. May 18, 2022 · The book certainly has hangboard and campus protocols—they are of the most useful training tools for the motivated climber—but also outlines wall exercises for improved footwork, body tension, warming up, and much more. Aug 22, 2022 · Ok, first things first: any climber who wants to climb as hard as their genetic potential will allow needs to hangboard at some point. I never really felt like I got much out of Maisch's max hang protocol for some reason. The hangboard is one of the best tools for developing grip strength, and if you’re serious about training for climbing, you’re going to use it at some point. Avoid Starting With Advanced Protocols Too Early Beginners sometimes jump into advanced hangboard programs designed for elite climbers. Jul 31, 2023 · Therefore, always ensure that your hangboard workout focuses on gradual progression and appropriate recovery periods. Sep 18, 2024 · Our climbing fanatic found the best hangboards of 2024. 1 day ago · Discover the best hangboard for beginners for climbing and bouldering training with our review guide. It is the training tool you will use the most. 25-35 lbs) in the same structure as this hangboard protocol, and it was still causing overuse injuries for me. This article delves into the essential Mar 29, 2025 · Your climbing success depends heavily on finger strength. Oct 5, 2022 · A climbing coach shares a beginner-friendly 8-week hangboard training plan along with some crucial tips for how to avoid injury. The Hangboarding Training Protocol My training protocol was simple. 2-3 days a week is a good target in order to keep stimulating the tissue to adapt. Aug 20, 2019 · Beginners who do not live in a place with easily accessible outdoor or indoor climbing options can use the hangboard at home to maintain more consistent and frequent loading throughout the week. Consistency is key, so be sure to plan your Hangboard training around your week – allowing for plenty of rest time. I can now max hang on a 30mm edge for 7 seconds and on a 25mm edge for 2 Workout Trainer has a variety of hangboard workouts to help you get started and you can easily add your own protocols to track your progress. Really weird that people who sell hangboard programs believe everyone should hangboard. But in reality, be consistent and I've tried no hangs 2x a day with very light load (e. An experts guide to using it right. The general consensus is that beginners should avoid Hangboard training for at least a year to prevent injuries. This beginner's guide explains hangboarding and how to start. I’ve been using it along with the hangboard protocol described in Mike and Mark Anderson’s book, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, for years, and have seen measurable gains. Two handed hangs suitable for any climber with explanations of how to adjust load depending on strength l Aug 12, 2020 · Discover a hangboard routine meant to properly warm you up and build your strength, while preparing you to climb later that same day. Entry Level: Intermediate: Advanced: Feb 9, 2020 · In the beginning, you should aim to hangboard train twice a week, with lots of rest in between. Read our in-depth guide for everything you need to go know. THE hangboard routine you should know! 👉In our latest YouTube video we have coach @ollietorr here to show us a really simple hangboarding session that every rock climber should know. I would go with something that feels good and simple. In their conversation, Steve and Chris… Feb 26, 2024 · Wondering when the best time to hangboard is? This article discusses whether it's better to hangboard before or after your climbing session for optimal results. Aug 24, 2023 · Master the ultimate hangboard workout with our detailed guide. This portion of the protocol Jul 9, 2025 · 5. zxxjmijraoplmxlkuzsscuszabhbvhszypdpwypchelrcnzfpzq