How to rappel with atc and prusik. Apr 4, 2008 · Here's a climber about to rappel out of a tree on a doubled rope using a tethered ATC with prusik back-up. This can be remedied by adding more ‘wraps’ of the autoblock around your rappel ropes and by checking your autoblock’s ability to ‘grab’ the rope before you start your rappel. (If you use an alternative type of anchor tether to a PAS, some steps here will change slightly. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant and makes our team happy and confident. While it is often called a knot, the prusik it technically a hitch. Karl Prusik (not prussik) and within a few years it became a must-know skill. Learn how to rappel right! Mar 9, 2021 · Home - Climb - Abseiling Safely: The Complete Guide on How to Rappel Proper abseiling technique is a valuable skill for every rock climber and mountaineer to have in their pocket. Munter Rappel: The HollowBlock carabiner gets clipped to your leg loop. Ensure you always have one hand on the prusik and one hand on the rope. Wrap 2-3 times around both strands of rope (enough for it to grab), and clip other end to the same carabiner for the WAC Way. Seneca Rocks Climbing School guide Adam Happensack demonstrates how to properly load an ATC for rappel to reduce the odds of dropping the device. For example, friction helps you belay your partner and descend via rappelling with more control. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. Keep reading to learn how to use a rappel device when rappelling. It should fit snug without being tight, and sit above your hip bones. This ‘preflight check’ is something that should be done with any backup and should be a part of More accidents happen on rappel than any other part of climbing, so always take your time, make sure your systems are redundant and practice the steps before you head to the cliff. Meaning, pronunciation, picture, example sentences, grammar, usage notes, synonyms and more. Aug 26, 2022 · In Part 5 of this series, Alice shows Clare how to abseil/rappel from the top of a crag. Dec 12, 2022 · Pass the knot by removing your rappel device from above the knot and reinstalling it below the knot, with a third-hand backup prusik in place below your ATC (clipping the prusik to your leg loop is common when not using a rappel extension). This post will walk you through what a rappel device is, how to use one, and some of the most common types of belay and rappel devices. Dec 5, 2024 · Lowering and Rappelling The performance of the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling is once again dependent on which mode you are using. This guide will outline the gear needed, how to set up a personal anchor system, using an ATC (air traffic controller), and adding a third hand for extra security. Jul 11, 2012 · With a prussik attached to a leg loop, you're pretty much forced to keep the rope off to that side. The meaning of RAPPEL is to descend (as from a cliff) by sliding down a rope passed under one thigh, across the body, and over the opposite shoulder or through a special friction device. Should I backup my rappel - Comments from climbers reproduced in Dawn's FAQ regarding backing up an abseil with a prusik (or similar) knot, above or below the belay device. While being lowered by a belayer is generally the most ideal way A final option to belay a rappeller is a "third hand" which incorporates a friction hitch (e. Rappelling backups are an ongoing topic. This article explains how to attach yourself to the anchor, and abseil with an ATC. Rappelling requires the ability to make decisions on a situational basis, and the extended rappel might not always Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through ways to rappel with a personal backup. Learn how to create an extended rappel using a 120cm sling. In this article, I The extended rappel, explained — Alpinesavvy Rappel Backup Prusik By using a backup, you effectively create a ‘third hand’ on the rope using a sling in the form of a friction hitch, which can act as an extra measure of security should you. Extending your belay device before abseiling can be useful in certain situations. In addition, via friction hitches, friction allows you to grip the climbing rope, which is super useful in various contexts like hauling and ascending. Feb 2, 2019 · The auto block and extended rappel are covered in depth at this tip. The prusik isn’t meant to take the weight of the climber, just enough to break the rappel while still relying on the rappel device, carabiner, belay loop to bear the weight. What are some of the issues, pros, and cons of the different methods of locking a figure 8 or ATC while on a free hanging rappel? I know the most common way to lock an 8 is to simply cross the brake line over in a half lock. It slides when unweighted but locks under load, making it a reliable knot. Friction (Belay/Rappel) Device There are a lot of different styles of devices to connect your harness to the rope, but the most common is a tube-style belay device like an ATC, which can double as a rappelling device and allow you to pass both strands of the rope through it. Use up most of the cord during your wraps to create friction. To test, weight the hitch while still clipped in. With the pre-rigged rappel, we can increase the security of our team while also making the descent more efficient. Oct 3, 2021 · How to clean (bolted) anchors and rappel on an extended ATC with a third-hand backup attached to the belay loop. It can be used as a rappel backup, to ascend a rope, to escape a belay, for glacier travel and for rescues. com Jul 18, 2023 · By following these step-by-step instructions, you can confidently clean and rappel from bolted sport anchors, ensuring your safety and minimizing wear on the anchor system. Here’s a photo from that post to show you the difference. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Extended Rappel w/ ATC: Clip the HollowBlock to your belay loop with a small, locking carabiner. (At least in my Jul 27, 2025 · A prusik is used with an ATC to provide a level of redundancy. The GriGri, however, already has redundancy— it has the assisted braking cam and the curves in the rope like the ATC. , a Autoblock, Klemheist, Prusik, etc) on the rope strand of rope that exits the brake-side of the DCD. This is a continuation of teaching the series of knots and skills needed to do a simple rappel with simple gear. It grips under load and releases even when loaded. Dec 10, 2013 · Tying a third hand (which usually involves an autobloc hitch or a prussik hitch) enables you to easily back-up your rappel so you can release your brake hand whilst rappelling without losing control and/or suffering potentially dire consequences. An autoblock is an optional but often used addition. - You can transition from abseiling to ascending easily – useful if you abseil too far on a multi-pitch descent Feb 22, 2020 · The main downside to the autoblock is that it creates less friction than either the prusik or the kleimheist. Jan 27, 2021 · I set my rappel back up (guide ATC on a chain reactor, maybe 1 or 2 loops away from my harness), tied my prusik (below the ATC), and tested that the prusik would hold. go more rounds, or try a different different prusik diameter? the prusik is to hold the rope downwards, as if your hand is pulling the rope down when braking on the atc. For rappelling, this allows the knot to act as a backup without interfering with your normal progress. It puts the belay device about 8 or so inches away from the harness and there is about 3-4 inches between that and my backup clipped into my belay loop. But I usually rappel on 11 mm BlueWater II static rope, and such a large tough rope can jamb if this lock method is used while the device is weighted. rappel, n. 4; if not extending your rappel, clip it to your leg loop). WARNING: Getting off the couch is inherently dangerous! You must assume all t Apr 29, 2023 · In rock climbing, friction is your friend. Jul 18, 2023 · By following these step-by-step instructions, you can confidently clean and rappel from bolted sport anchors, ensuring your safety and minimizing wear on the anchor system. How can I lower my ATC? 1 – Tie a quick overhand or figure 8 on Sep 14, 2021 · How do you rappel if you drop your ATC? There are three primary methods for rappelling without a traditional belay device: Pursuing a single rope rappel with your partner, using only one belay device. Learn more. Reply reply More repliesMore replies Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. The Pros and Cons of an Autoblock Knot The biggest advantage of using an autoblock Jun 3, 2022 · To make your third hand, girth-hitch your prusik around the rope at least three times and use a locking biner to clip it to your belay loop (fig. Without tying that extra dangle, just clip your belay device into the loop that goes around your hard points. to go down a very steep slope by holding on to a rope that is fastened to the top of the slope…. This is a safer way to utilize an ATC in tree climbing, as mentioned earlier I'm uncomfortable with the idea of descending out of a tree on a system that doesn't have hands off stop. ) You also need a 24- to 36 The basic rappelling equipment consists of ropes, anchors, rappel devices, a locking carabiner, and a harness. Prusik Rappel Safety - A discussion paper on using a prusik knot to backup an abseil from the rock climbing archive site. See full list on ascentionism. What I found to be the most difficult when I first started was actually learning to trust the rope to hold me. ¹ meanings, etymology, pronunciation and more in the Oxford English Dictionary What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:) Rappelling is another essential skill when you're out in the wilderness and a fantastic gateway to moving on steep terrain. Dress the prusik and lock your biner. Enjoy! Auto-block - Backup when rappelling, we use the Sterling HollowBlock for this. While I don’t believe in setting hard and fast rules such as you must always rappel with a Prusik, I do think giving yourself the option is an excellent idea. Learn how here. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. This rappelling tutorial will show how to set up a rappel and build an Feb 7, 2017 · It was developed in 1931 by Austrian mountaineer Dr. With a prussik attached to a leg loop, you're pretty much forced to keep the rope off to that side. Learn the basics of rappelling, including preparing at the top of a route, setting up the rappel, using a backup and rappelling down. so it doesnt hold a lot of load. Then, use a locking carabiner from your harness leg loop, clip both ends, and lock the carabiner. Rappelling is quite safe, but only if performed correctly. A standard rappel is one where you lower yourself down a vertical or near-vertical surface, with your back towards the ground and your feet up against the wall. Never rely on one friction hitch! In general I would consider looking up an extended rappel. Jul 26, 2025 · rappel (third-person singular simple present rappels, present participle rappelling or rappeling, simple past and past participle rappelled or rappeled) To abseil. There are two potential downsides to a third-hand belay Jun 21, 2024 · To tie an autoblock knot, wrap the hitch cord around the rappel ropes four to five times. Some people prefer to have the prusik on their leg loop, others use the belay loop. Down prusik to them, render first aid if possible, go in direct to their descender, remove your prusiks, and take over the rappel to get you to a safe ledge or the ground and call for help. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. I also prefer to use a klemheist or auto block over a prusik for ease of tying, but a prusik works just fine. May 9, 2025 · Climbing is inherently risky. placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way. Is there a perfect way to backup your rappelling system? Jun 3, 2019 · For example, pre-set and lock off the ATC to a comfortable distance below the foot-anchors, then put the end of The Rope through the higher anchor/strong point/bolt carabiner to make a doubled rope, and rappel down over the edge and onto your locked-off ATC using a munter on the doubled end. You can use both hands to help brake off, which is good when you don't have rappel gloves. Subscribe to our channel for the latest updates and more! In this video we review two ways to back up a belay device for a rappel. Most people are so concerned about going up the wall that they fail to prepare for the (arguably more important) counterpart: safely coming back down. I use the sterling hollow block, but also use accessory cord at times i dont have it. Most climbers now rappel with an autoblock hitch below the device, clipped to a leg loop with a locking carabiner. I make mine large enough to prusik onto the rope. . g. To descend from a steep height by this method. In this guide, we explore the Prusik knot’s role in rope Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Your belay device will be connected around your pelvis by a harness, and you’ll use it to create friction on the way down. Using a double carabiner brake rappel with four carabiners. Prusik - Friction I use 40 ft of 9mm HTP, a Black Diamond ATC and a 35cm Beal Jammy prusik for an autoblock, a simple and relatively inexpensive set up. Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. If the rescuer becomes incapacitated due to rock fall or other circumstances, the friction hitch will grab the rope and stop his descent. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. i use french prusik and trust it with my life. RAPPEL definition: 1. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device I teach how to tie, check, and use a Prusik hitch as a safety belay backup. Rappelling, or abseiling, is an essential skill for rock climbers to descend from a climb safely and efficiently. If you May 15, 2025 · The Autoblock knot, also called French Prusik knot, is a friction hitch used as a backup when rappelling. One piece of added gear needed here and for many rappels is a personal anchor system (PAS), attached to your harness by a girth hitch tied through both harness tie-in points. Jul 27, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. Backing up the belay device Jun 2, 2024 · An extended rappel works great with an autoblock “third hand” rappel backup. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. - Your prusik will be centred, making it easier to use than if you attach it to a leg loop. Feb 1, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Abseiling (or rappelling) is a technique used to descend climbing ropes. A descent from a height, such as a cliff or wall, in which one slides down an anchored rope and applies friction to control one's speed, either by means of a specialized device or by passing the rope under one thigh and over the opposite shoulder. Equipment Used: Petzl Reverso* (Similar to an ATC) + Black Diamond Autolocking Jun 8, 2016 · The prusik is already attached to the climber’s belay loop, so all she has to do is add a second friction hitch for her feet below the first friction hitch. rappelling with a guide atc and vt prusik backup. Dec 11, 2014 · This information and the order in which it is presented is intended to provide an overall understanding of these techniques; they are not intended to serve as a tutorial on how to rappel or engage in any other climbing activity outside of the context of a complete climbing course. In the next section, I talk about how exactly you tie the prussik so that it can perform in this capacity. Jul 10, 2025 · The Prusik Knot (ABoK #1763) is a friction hitch used for climbing and rappelling. Aug 17, 2024 · Test if it works; if so, add a prusik, remove yourself from the anchor, and start to rappel slowly, as you would with an ATC. Say the first down on rappel got hit by rock fall and was unresponsive while held in place by their third hand. Using a munter hitch, using only one locking carabiner and the climbing rope. Definitions of 'rappel' To rappel down a cliff or rock face means to slide down it in a controlled way using a rope, with your feet against the cliff or rock. For rappelling, we preferred using manual mode with a prusik backup, as this is far and away the smoothest way to rappel, and feels just like any other tube-style device. Back-up systems include extra rope to use as safety back-up known as prusik and personal anchor tether (also known as personal anchor system). Finally, straighten out all the wraps so they’re not crossed. In this guide, we explore the Prusik knot’s role in rope This post is going to cover one of the most basic pieces of equipment, the rappel device. Sorry for portrait mode again. This video was made with a saddle hunter in mind and shows how to safely transition from a tree tether, tied off with a prusik cord, to a figure 8 or other device for a rappel down the tree once Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. A climbing helmet, hiking shoes, gloves, and of course, comfortable clothes are a must if you are going rappelling. Definition of rappel noun in Oxford Advanced Learner's Dictionary. Nov 12, 2018 · Using a dedicated extension when rappelling in an alpine setting provides maximum flexibility and efficiency, allows you to move freely near the anchor while being clipped in, and maintains the extension within arms. Jun 23, 2023 · Climbing and rappelling go hand in hand. Checking Rappel Gear Your essential climbing gear is also your rappel gear, with a few additions. Dec 3, 2024 · Prusik Knots in Rope Systems The Prusik knot is a cornerstone of technical rope systems, widely regarded for its versatility and reliability. To make the auto block, use a webbing loop designed for this such the Sterling Hollow Block, or second choice, a short prusik loop (start with 1. Aug 30, 2021 · Can you rappel with a Prusik? As a backup for rappelling Perhaps the most obvious reason to carry a Prusik is to use it as a “third hand” or backup while rappelling. While your setup here works having the prusik on the braking strands limits the amount of force applied to the prusik. The autoblock functions as your “third hand” rappel backup, and let you go hands-free on the rappel at any time. The two most popular friction hitches in climbing are the autoblock and the prusik. Advantages - You can use a prusik with less chance of it getting sucked into your belay device. Whether used in high-angle rescue, climbing, or rigging operations, the Prusik knot provides a lightweight, adaptable solution for progress capture, backup belay, and other critical applications. Rap Backup - From Karl Lews web site. Dec 28, 2010 · I use a cordelette or sling to extend out my ATC to about eye level when rappelling, then attach the prusik below the device. The Klemheist is easier to tie, and I think it holds better than a prussik (for the number of wraps). Rappel definition: (in mountaineering) the act or method of moving down a steep incline or past an overhang by means of a double rope secured above and placed around the body, usually under the left thigh and over the right shoulder, and paid out gradually in the descent. Rappel Backup Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. Note the rappel device is extended away from the harness with a locking quickdraw (one of various ways to do this), and the autoblock knot is below the rappel device. Hey! Glad to see someone else using a Purcell. zdjuomf ibwdh enn jsfe haujw pvree rwopg ekbd atzze xwpwfh
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