Drag vs crimp. This is the approach I have taken in the past year.
- Drag vs crimp. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. I'm sure I learned this from a ukclimbing article by Niel Gresham way back when, you could probably find it still with a bit of searching. Closing off that grip provides more options to apply power. Learn which is better for your business. If you're just starting out then yes, you should focus on climbing open handed as much as possible since the connective tissues in your fingers aren't yet strong enough to handle the added stress of harder crimping. Jun 16, 2025 · drag queen, a man who dresses in women’s clothes and performs before an audience. It is rooted in acceptance and resilience and is an artform that represents freedom of expression and resistance to unjust forces. In the case that you actually need to pull hard and collapses into full crimp this seems extremely dangerous Reply reply littlegreenfern • Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. The grip style makes a huge difference on a hangboard. high reliability projects frequently require ring lugs only, no spade or fast disconnect 6. Feb 2, 2025 · Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. Aug 21, 2023 · A step-by-step guide on how to build a roller crimper for roughly 20% of the cost of a new brand-name crimper. 2. For open handing Lopez and Bourne found in separate studies that open handed finger strength on small holds was strongly related to the amount of flesh at the finger tip deforming to the edge. When I use an open hand grip on an edge or sloper and if Feb 11, 2021 · One-arm hang: Right: 14 seconds; Left: 7. Jan 18, 2025 · Explore the cultural significance and influence of drag and its transformative role in LGBTQIA+ culture. Quickly load your fingers, generating as much force as you can. While Starn Tool, a well-respected precision machining company since 1945, has May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. pull test is no good, when connector is loaded backwards in crimper, where hard crimp is on insulation, and loose insulation crimp is on wire, What flexors are being deployed for the different grip positions? Are there mechanical advantages to the crimp vs frictional skin advantages to dragging/open handing ? Is it beter to specifically train to correct anamolous grip strength differences or to focus on the strong/natural grip (if uninjured) ? And most importantly which grip is the My 3 finger drag on 20mm I maxed at 140%, 1/2 crimp on 20mm I only maxed at just over 120%. Also, keep in mind that we are talking about testing to failure, not testing that the connection holds under the drag levels that might be encountered while fighting a fish. How to use drag in a sentence. Elevate your climbing game with this knowledge. PEX Crimp Vs. Crimping F-type connectors are essential components for coaxial cable connections commonly used in television, internet, and other RF signal applications. You should now notice that when you’re climbing, you’re way more comfy on crimps, and hopefully a lot stronger. Has anybody seen gains focusing on 3 finger drag? Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. So basically it's a three finger drag or an open half crimp where my index and pinky are basically open, but the middle and ring DIP are at about 90 degrees May 19, 2009 · Using it open-hand I found I found I sagged down to drag it too much to make the big reach/lurch with the other hand compared to using a full on crimp. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. #168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens This episode is brought to you by @organicclimbing". I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp Jan 10, 2022 · Gentle rest your fingers on the hold and position them close to the form you will use (3 finger drag vs half crimp, for example). When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y Oct 29, 2020 · Does wrapping your thumb over your index finger make you cringe? You may be missing out on some serious pulling I think it's definitely worth training your half crimp strength to bring it up to the same level as your full crimp. They are characterized by their narrow width and typically have a small edge or lip that climbers can grasp with their fingertips. Feb 7, 2014 · The evidence is in the amount of people that have ruptured their tendons using a closed crimp compared to an open hand. I train open crimp and 3 a lot more than full crimping lately, but it's been specific to my goal problems. I can drag mono pockets, but struggle front 2 half crimped. Oct 7, 2011 · 5. Jan 5, 2025 · Are there mechanical advantages to the crimp vs frictional skin advantages to dragging/open handing ? See above for mechanical advantages of crimping. Is a standard crimp a more powerful way to pull on a hold, or can an open handed technique be just as strong? Having a problem with one of my finger joints so could be time to adapt. I've always assumed three finger drag was open and have never really thought about an open crimp with four fingers. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut ledges with a recess for better finger traction. I think it takes a lot longer to develop a strong 3 finger drag than a strong crimp, but the advantage is that it makes you way less prone to injury. #climbingtraining #latticetraining #wetrainclimbers Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. This is the perfect guide to know it. If the crimp is not properly formed I have a short pinky too. On most edges I cannot do a true open hand grip since my pinky is so short. Elements of drag fashion, such as bold makeup, vibrant costumes, and daring styles, have influenced the mainstream fashion industry, music videos, and other areas of popular culture. Mid 2 I can drag the small pockets pretty comfortably but half crimp is near maximal effort. Crimp 💥 If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. g. I am a professional musician and SOLDERLESS CLOSED BARREL TERMINATION TRAINING MANUAL THIS GUIDE HAS BEEN PRODUCED TO HELP YOU ACHIEVE A PROPERLY CRIMPED TERMINAL OR SPLICE EVERY TIME. Introduction to Crimp Technology Developed to reduce the need to solder terminations, crimping technology provides a high-quality connection between a terminal and a wire at a relatively low applied cost. In the realm of electrical connections, two techniques often come to the forefront: soldering and crimping. In this comprehensive guide, we delve deeper into the world of soldered and crimped cable connectors, providing you with a detailed comparison to help you make an informed decision Understanding F-Type Connectors: Compression vs. Crimp Style Hydraulic Hose Fitting - 43 Series Fittings | Parker NA. Since everything shut down I have been focusing on doing majority half crimp to bring them more in line. Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can lead to injury (coincidentally I have mild synovitis in I have been climbing for close to two years (3 times a week for one year) and have always just used open hand on crimps. Costumes, wigs, and make-up are used, and often Drag performances involve lip-syncing, dancing, and/or comedy. Halloween season always brings these videos Bridging the knowledge gap Most people think they can use any tool to crimp a terminal. Jan 31, 2022 · Reduce the load accordingly, and slowly work up to being able to hold your body weight on two hands while maintaining the full crimp position. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Drag queen? Drag king? Drag storytime? Egale Explains all this and more. That means: More force Longer time to apply force Feb 9, 2020 · Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 degrees with extension of the distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint. It has evolved into a movement that is cultural, artistic, and yes, political. Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. 5 Project car This is my guide to teasing hair! I've noticed a lot of folks tagging me in very old videos on how I tease wigs. Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. Full crimp The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. Is this normal? Am I best training half crimped, open, or both? I feel like I believe chisel grip is akin to 4 finger open, so the index finger PIP joint has a much more obtuse angle than the 90° you're aiming for in half crimp, but the little finger still stays on the hold unlike your standard 3 finger drag. I believe Aidan Roberts is somewhat similar in that he is fairly weak on a hangboard in half crimp, but very strong with a flexed pinky. Everyone’s fingers are different, and Emil is a very strong rock climber. It involves climbers wrapping the thumb over the index fingers and curling the fingers into a smaller joint angle. So more powerful than 3 finger drag but slightly less efficient. The following pages illustrate the DOs and DON’Ts of crimpling, and highlight the advantages of using matched cable, terminal and tooling from the extensive AMP product range 391 likes, 2 comments - testpiececlimbing on July 21, 2025: "Dan Varian breaks down the difference between high knuckle crimping vs. The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. Oct 31, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. When to Use Half crimp vs. Have you tried comparing this to 4 finger drag? This crimp position seems unstable unless you’re digging into incut crimps. Dec 17, 2024 · What Does ‘Drag’ Mean in Slang? In contemporary slang, the term “drag” has evolved significantly, transcending its various original connotations. Someone with more of a The drag is important to me so I have the strength to hit a hold and readjust confidently or move feet first. Discover how drag has shaped queer identity, activism, and artistic expression while influencing broader societal perceptions. The pinky on "open" really ends up with a much more acute angle in my middle fingers PIP joint, far closer to a half crimp, and a lot more strain on the A2. And when I put my thumb over my index finger I feel like I'm going to break it. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. If not then it'd be whatever crimp gives you the best purchase and allows you to generate the most power from a given hold. CONNECTOR INFORMATION COLOR CODE (BIN) PART NUMBER (CURRENT) PART NUMBER (SUPERSEDED) PIN/ SKT SIZE (AWG) WIRE RANGE CRIMP TOOL AND ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY TOOLS MATING END WIRE BARREL AF8 AFM8 MH860 1716P-1 39-000 WA23 (LOC) WA23 (DIE) INSERTION REMOVAL Crimp holds are small, sharp holds that require a lot of finger strength to grip onto. This is the approach I have taken in the past year. Using the thumb to lock the index finger onto a hold is effective, but this grip places high loads on finger joints and pulleys 1039 Likes, TikTok video from Lattice Training (@lattice_training): “Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. These types of holds require strong finger strength and precise technique. Some grip types are more “active” than others. Clamp: What’s The Difference? The table below shows a comparison between PEX crimps and clamps: Nov 18, 2007 · It appears I'm way weaker half crimped that dragging. In a crimped grip, the pulleys must absorb huge forces to hold the flexor tendons tight against the bones of the fingers. That means: More force Longer time to apply Drag is usually used to describe a 3 finger open hand grip. A drag queen is someone (usually male) who performs femininely and a drag king is someone (usually female) who performs masculinely. Dec 17, 2012 · If you crimp too little, the extra drag of the un-crimped mouth will cause feeding problems. Still the strain is taking a long time to heal which has got me thinking about the mechanics of open-handing vs crimping. A single bad crimp can cause both physical and electrical problems. . I am a professional musician and Have you tried comparing this to 4 finger drag? This crimp position seems unstable unless you’re digging into incut crimps. Crimp 💥 Sep 27, 2024 · Learn how to improve your crimping technique, a crucial skill for boulders. In addition, if you are certain the only way to hold something is with a super powerful full crimp, consider making adjustments to your feet and body position to make climbing holds feel better instead of always resulting to full crimping. The meaning of DRAG is to draw or pull slowly or heavily : haul. 0 seconds 6-millimetre crimp: 7. As a bonus training the three finger drag I'm finding that I can latch on micro positive edges that aren't incut far more securely on Nov 9, 2021 · In reply to Wooj: If your strong enough to drag every small edge on any angle of wall then it really would be personal choice. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. Due to the amount of tension in your finger and hand tendons, crimping is one of the most common climbing hold types that An open drag is great for conserving energy, but it limits upward drive and reduces force production time for the same reason - your elbow just can't go that high around the hold. In a four finger grip, the index and pinky are stabilizing the hand and subject to more sideways forces. Drag uses clothes and other aspects of performance to create heightened versions of masculinity, femininity and other forms of gender expression. Drag shows (typically staged in nightclubs and Gay Pride festivals) are largely a subcultural phenomenon. Like the half crimp, the three-finger drag can be trained in a variety of ways: edge lifting, hangboarding, board training and bouldering. I tend to use half or sometimes full crimps for 'hard' edges and positions, then go open drag to rest or do easier moves. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. Nov 10, 2022 · Here, the half crimp and full crimp will typically result in the highest performances. From early underground performances to mainstream visibility today, drag has long served as a space for self-expression and a vital form of social commentary. An open drag is great for conserving energy, but it limits upward drive and reduces force production time for the same reason - your elbow just can't go that high around the hold. Three finger drag 3. Today, it broadly refers to a form of expression that embraces exaggeration, performance, and often humor. Find crimp applicators crafted from high-grade tool steels and processed through advanced CNC equipment for tight tolerances. Whether you love or hate climbing crimps, mastering them is key. My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Moonboard. However the transfer to four-finger edges was poor — I got used to not using my little finger (a terrible habit!). These Sep 11, 2023 · Crimps und Leisten auf einen Blick Wer stellt, der hält: Wenn du deine Finger beim Crimpen aufstellst, lässt du den Griff nicht mehr los – das impliziert zumindest dieser Spruch. Mar 24, 2012 · The crimps do not place the same stress in the line, and instead are splitting the tension in half after the crimp, making the line above the crimp the weak link. Question: What are the pros/cons of training a "true" half crimp? Safer? Stronger? Or is it just variances in anatomy that don't matter I’m interested in the usefulness of training 3 finger drag vs just training a 4 finger open position and a more strict half crimp. Just depends on what your climbing, one may suit better May 17, 2022 · Mecal By Starn started as a partnership between Mecal and Starn Tool in order to supply North American Wire Harness Industry with world-class applicators, presses and spare parts from Mecal. Apr 18, 2025 · 3,041 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. Crimp climbing, also known as crimping, is a climbing grip where your fingertips are the only thing that touches a crimp climbing hold. The methods for applying crimp terminations depend on the application and volume, and range from handheld devices to fully automated systems. 4 finger "open hand" (for people where the pinky finger is significantly shorter) arent actually very open handed as in order to get the pinky on the first 3 must be bent (for me it's basically 1/2 crimp). Useful tips from Splice Crimping Seminar: splice crimping vs. That said, the three-finger drag can be a strong grip if you train it. Four finger half crimp 2. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Also in one of their videos they say that, based on their data, the half crimp and 3 finger drag are the two grip positions that translate best from hangboard training to all different positions. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. Crimp holds are small holds that only have enough space for fingertips. Specificity 2. Yet, drag continues to May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. Apr 21, 2025 · Context: I've got a pulley strain and following my usual routine I've been climbing fairly lightly without crimping. If after a brief visual inspection, the terminal looks good, they assume the connection is secure. terminals What are the main differences between splice crimping and standard terminals? Splice crimping Splice is a connection between two or more components of any type: wire, tab, PCB, coil, sensor, diode, etc. Don't think it's a problem at all, just different tools in the box. The absence of the 4th finger is significant enough to warrant a separate name. But if then the situation arises, that you have to full crimp a hold on a hard boulder, whilst almost never full crimping in general, you have a higher risk for injury for sure. Closed crimp: the PIP is in flexion (90 degrees) while the DIP is in hyperextension. At its most traditional, men dress in (traditionally) women’s clothing and adopt exaggerated personas as a way to challenge social norms. Learn when and how to use each technique to enhance your performance and conquer challenging routes. If you're going big on steep terrain, switch to a closed grip and turn that pull into a powerful push. The correlations with route grades were similar. I'll copy-pasta something that I wrote on one of the weekly hangout threads: As to whether or not you should train your three finger drag, I have this short anecdote. Surely you have hit a hold open-handed and found yourself stuck. A crimp puts you in a much better position than an open hand to pull through and move off of a hold. That keeps the unsupported length of wire as short as possible, so vibration has minimal effect on the crimp joint. These types of climbing holds are usually on more advanced climbs. May 26, 2025 · Drag is an art form that brings together performance, fashion, and identity. However, crimping solderless terminals is a carefully engineered solution, and looks can be deceiving. Once you've built up that tendon strength (after years of This guide has been produced to help you achieve a perfectly crimped terminal or splice every time. Oct 10, 2020 · Crimp it, then anchor the wire to a solid mount a few inches away, like tiewrapping it to a framerail. Maybe that's why I crimp everything so hard. The most open position—often referred to as a “drag”—is extremely useful for resting on large positive holds where the high contact surface with the hold allows for frictional assistance. Full Crimp (Closed) The full-crimp is a powerful and aggressive grip position, that allows a climber to lock down on even the smallest of edges. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. Jul 13, 2021 · Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. Deswegen gilt eher: wer [die Füße richtig] stellt, der hält. Jan 4, 2024 · Instead of crimping every hold, try to mix in other grip types, like the three-finger drag or half crimp. If you crimp too much, you'll get a round that won't chamber or won't shoot accurately. Nov 10, 2024 · Crimping was one of my major strengths, let me get my fingers on something i could pull through on a half crimp now I can’t even hold my body weight on half crimp but I can do 5 pull ups on 3 finger drag. Hangboard is the tool for this: open hand/4 finger drag half crimp full crimp closed crimp 3 finger drag 1 Reply justaboyinaguysbody Apr 27, 2017 · Plumbing your racecar is an important task and has the potential to provide extra performance gains. Apr 10, 2025 · If you are curious to discover the difference between push in wire connectors vs wire nuts, then look no further. We see a lot of beginners use too much drag position when first fingerboarding as it feels the strongest and they can often hang the heaviest weights. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. the full crimp. Bei einigen Boulderer:innen trifft das sogar zu, für andere steigt das Verletzungsrisiko aber deutlich. In the past, my Open hand vs three finger drag? So for a good couple years I've just been training half crimp and 'open hand', however I've been doing 3 finger drag as my open hand. Drag has a significant role in 2SLGBTQI history and culture, representing resilience, creativity, and community. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. THE FOLLOWING PAGES ILLUSTRATE THE DOS AND DON’TS OF CRIMPING, AND HIGHLIGHT THE ADVANTAGES OF USING MATCHED CABLE, TERMINAL AND TOOLING FROM THE EXTENSIVE TE CONNECTIVITY PRODUCT RANGE. Mecal was established in 1976 with the aim of supplying the wire harness industry with the best crimping equipment available. When someone talks about Drag, they are usually referring to the performance of exaggerated femininity, masculinity, or other forms of gender expression for entertainment. Beyond that I half-crimp everything. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. From this point onwards you can start to train your crimp strength with all the usual fingerboarding exercises – max hangs and so on Dec 24, 2012 · For instance its easy for me to purely drag front 3, but when I use all 4 fingers, trying to "drag" a small edge actually ends up with my front 3 doing a quarter crimp. Drag usually involves cross-dressing. Both methods have unique strengths and weaknesses, making them suitable for different applications. The 5th digit (pinky) may be in this position as well, or may be in the open drag position. Another reason to train the three-finger drag is that strength in this grip is a prerequisite for impressive sloper strength. So more like a long term development / injury prevention decision. Perfect for various crimping tasks, this Crimp applicator streamlines your work and ensures reliable results. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) I'm curious — is your open crimp weaker than your half-crimp? To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). In summary it is prudent, when there is a choice, that the crimp is a weapon best unleashed sparingly rather than habitually but not to be ignored entirely. So it makes sense you either hangboard with a half crimp and 3 finger drag, or only the half crimp as your open hand is already strong. Crimp If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. Magnum Shielding is leading the way in High Performance, High Efficiency, matching braided motorcycle brake lines, clutch, throttle, and idle cables with unique styling for that customized look with stock or alternative fitment options to suit your needs. Using a bigger variety of grip positions (especially the 4 finger half crimp in with open 4) builds much stronger, more robust and higher performing finger strength in the long run. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), your elbow can travel higher (increased angle) without losing contact. In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. Right Aug 27, 2023 · Discover the difference between an open-hand grip and a crimp in climbing. Mar 27, 2019 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. When you start removing fingers, other fingers are subjected to them. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. Justin T 19 May 2009 In reply to pdufus: If you are so used, to not full crimping, that you literally never do it, it is no problem. Feb 14, 2025 · Discover the key differences between crimp and solder connections for wire terminal connectors. Why not crimp, solder, then glue-lined heatshrink? You can even tin the ends before crimping, it still makes a great physical bond. Wirklich besser crimpen: Jeder Crimp braucht Mar 16, 2005 · I'm balanced between half crimp and full drag (3 fingers for me, due to short pinky), but cannot match that with full crimp: my index and middle do not extend much and the full crimp is the most painful prehension for me. May 16, 2024 · Original discussion began You must be registered to see element. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. Armed with the knowledge of how to hold crimps, practice, and finger-strength exercises, you'll be Dec 19, 2015 · “Finger pulley injuries are the most common climbing related injury, and occur during crimping. There is some conversations going on about switching the bom from silicone to ptfe due to the fact that ptfe will have less overall wear than silicone wire and is highly suggested when using zip chains. 5ish 8-millimetre crimp: 27 seconds 10-millimetre crimp: 0 seconds Felix: 10 kg increase on two-arm hang Further Consideration This is an unproven study, with many variables unaccounted for. We take a look at the Fragola Performance System Sport-Crimp fittings and see how they can help any plumbing job on our Evil 8. ltvgmwo bic wqrhdd mymp dzbb wljk vgzzyi ipimh jqyxt glnpw