Best outdoor auto belay device reddit. 4M subscribers in the climbing community.

Best outdoor auto belay device reddit. Weighing less than 10oz and holding up to 4KN (4000 kg), the Epic Peak Rescue Figure 8 Descender is your one stop shop multi-functional descender. I wasn’t a huge fan. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. ]though Petzl recommends the device for use in both applications. I think it’s natural to fear auto belays, especially as they feel so alien when you’ve been used to having a partner belay you. You made an excellent choice! The TRUBLUE™ Auto Belay is the next generation of indoor and outdoor climbing wall auto belays. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. I'm considering the Smart or the Salewa Ergo. Reattach the carabiner to the belay gate or designated attachment point How to Become an Auto Belay Pro Now that you're familiar with the basic operation of an auto belay you can take the next step toward becoming an auto belay master. It could probably decided soft vs. Sounds pretty simple right? Hey Tundrawolf_ This is from wikipedia: [. Nov 11, 2023 · The easiest belay device to use incorrectly. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. However, with all gyms requiring GriGris inside, I have started to think more about getting something with a brake assist for ice climbing. don't use the belay loop with a rope. Head Rush's patented magnetic braking mechanism allows each device to adjust to each climber weight and create a consistent descent experience for everyone alike. ). TruBlue recommends clipping the belay loop when using their auto-belay devices. Is there a passive device like the mega jul, atc pilot, or something else that folks like? Auto belay devices have revolutionized indoor and outdoor climbing, providing safety and independence for climbers of all skill levels. Benefits of this type of climbing are that individuals can climb more frequently, more independently, and for longer periods of time. Even with the ohm you're going to need to practice pulling and falling on it before you project Feb 22, 2020 · How Do Auto Belays Work? An automatic belay device (AKA auto belay) takes up slack as you climb, thereby negating the need for a belayer on the ground. These innovative systems allow individuals to climb without a partner by automatically managing the slack and safely controlling descents. Since you won’t be having any support from below, you’ll need to understand the harness system in-depth. The operation is similar to a traditional ATC and it's light, with a brake assist for lead belaying. We met some good friends through it. And yes we are scared of falling. Rope Soloing The common rope soloing activities are called top roping and lead belaying. EMPOWERING EPIC ADVENTURES The world's preferred climbing auto belay, zip line, and free fall devices elevated by magnetic braking. It is also the simplest, and the most affordable. I want something easy, lightweight and that will last me a long The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Designed for the climbing industry, thousands of TRUBLUEs are in use around the world in climbing gyms, ropes courses, family entertainment centers and more. The most tested and trusted auto belay in the world. Local WA gyms remove auto belays due to what I can only believe is fear from litigation due to climbers misuse atc = normal tube device atc-xp = normal tube device with a high friction side atc-xp guide = atc-xp with an auto-block feature for bringing up seconds figure 8 is a rappel device that you can also belay with but I wouldn't advise it. My girlfriend isn't very confident belaying me on lead with an ATC so I feel like this will help us out. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl Neox easily feeds slack while lead belaying, and also provides a secure catch, making it our favorite belay device for belaying a leader and single-pitch climbing. WHY DO CLIMBING FACILITIES USE THEM? An auto belay device provides climbers with a safe, simple, and accessible option for climbing routes that would usually require a rope, without the need for a belay partner. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. You can use it for a double rope rappel, and belay one or two climbers following. TRUBLUE’s self-regulating magnetic braking system is the result of years of research, development, and testing. It saves time and is safer imo. Ensure that the gym you climb at gets their devices sent out for recertification at least annually and that the devices are CSA, ANSI and/or EN/CE certified. e. Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. The home of Climbing on reddit. 3 days ago · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. TruBlue Autobelay instruction manual page 20: "NEVER CLIMB WITHOUT BEING CORRECTLY ATTACHED Ensure the carabiner is attached to belay loop of the harness and the latch is fully closed and the gate engaged before starting to climb. This means that belayers are much Jun 7, 2023 · In the comments I see a lot of people saying that they prefer non-breaking belay devices, which seems pretty obvious, but other people say that auto-breaking devices are safer, because they will usually break even if the belayer doesn't keep their hand on the brake. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Check out our review of belay devices to see how it ranks versus competitors. The TRUBLUE Auto Belay is the only auto belay to utilize magnetic eddy current braking technology, which offers benefits in addition to reliability and cyclic endurance. I think you may be referring to an assisted belay device such as a grigri. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Lightweight, rugged and auto locking, this thing is build to for anything. Regarding the rope/belay idea, what would be wrong with a standard rope solo setup like this? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 289 votes, 29 comments. The secret is our friction-free, magnetic braking technology, which gives the softest, safest, most consistent catch available on the market today. The reverso is made for multipitch climbing. hard based on the amount of rope it's put out, but it won't know about any other hazards on a route. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. New to climbing with a harness : r/climbing     Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing It seems like using this as a lead belay, you'd miss out on the ability of the belayer to judge how you need to be caught to make your fall safe. The reason for this is because when the auto belay is connected from the top of the wall to the ground, it is under a heavier load on it's coil than if the auto was left "up" (with the lanyard just barely hanging out of the auto belay canister). Seems cool for indoor climbing though, maybe some gyms will be using it in a few years. I prefer it to the VE bouldering gym. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ belay/rappel devices. It has assisted braking but it probably isn't one of the top 3 the assisted braking devices on the market. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs a belay device isn’t going to make it safe to climb with someone who can have an unexpected seizure. Hi all, with the release of the Petzl Neox I've seen a lot of discussion about the best application for different devices and was surprised to learn some people even use a different device for belaying a leader vs follower. 274 votes, 101 comments. If you are a fan of the GRIGRI design but don't want the auto locking feature, then have a look at the I like to lead belay with the Mammut Smart, top rope belay with the GriGri and I keep an ATC with an auto-locking biner on my harness when I'm climbing outside for rappelling. Or you can show up and auto belay and try to get to know people. 1. what do you meant by auto-belay device? an auto belay is a device in the gym to belay without a partner. Set up above a particular route, the auto-belay automatically takes in slack as you move up. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Jun 1, 2021 · Auto-belay devices became a necessity during COVID because they eliminated the need for a partner. The smart is my favourite belay device. Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. Your belayer needs a lot more practice figuring out how best to stand (or kneel/squat, as I often do), where to stand, and how to catch better and brace themselves. A close call that I am aware of with an auto belay was due to someone's t-shirt and/or belay loop getting stuck in the carabiner gate and preventing the gate from fully closing and autolocking. Our article on the best belay devices will show you how it fares versus competing products. I'm 10-15lbs heavier than your belayer and regularly lead belay partners 180-200lbs. Will be weird to belay from the top with. 3. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Dec 5, 2024 · It has slightly more friction than other auto-block devices when belaying the follower (s), so we recommend that the leader takes a belay with the Mega Jul, and the follower is belayed with a different auto-block or “ guide ” style tube device. P. Feb 21, 2020 · The Petzl Verso is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side and is the lightest device in our review. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. It’s like anything with climbing on ropes, you just need to learn to trust the gear. A friend of mine uses old mattresses under a layer of 5" thick high density upholstery foam under a layer of 1/2 or 3/4in CCF (think cheap sleeping pad material). ), what is your opinion of the device after using it for a while? I am in the market for a new one, and am wondering which one will be best down the road. What brand in particular. Other devices are useful for specific things but for like 99% of situations, a grigri is all around better. As someone who pretty much uses the grigri2 for everything, I found this interesting and want to know what r/tradclimbing uses. I do personally love and recommend using a double or triple action auto locking biner for your belay device. New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. " Jan 22, 2025 · Our review of the Edelrid Pinch gave high marks for its light weight, fluency with skinny ropes, and a reliably safe orientation. This auto belay is designed 237 votes, 198 comments. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. See a fair amount of anti auto-belay comments. The TRUBLUE Auto Belay is the next generation of indoor and outdoor auto belays. The pro and con of autobelay is your safety is pretty much all in your hands! Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset. What is the best belay device for an intermediate level climber? I've been considering the mammut smart belay device as I don't want anything clunky like a grigri, but I am open to suggestions. But I need someone to recommend me something else as well. I hear that the grigri petzl is particularly good. As the demand for more efficient and reliable climbing experiences grows, selecting the best auto belay device becomes Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. The route setting there is really good and changes often but there are no ropes. It functions as a tube device when belaying, and then allows you to belay up a partner in guide mode from the top, and it allows you rappel. May 7, 2025 · This review includes 15 of the best and most popular available today. Here's what you need to know about auto belay devices: What cable specifically? Do we know? If cable means some cable inside the mechanics of the auto-belay device, then it seems like something that would be at the fault of the auto-belay and it could be understandable how this went unnoticed by the employees of the gym, although it still should have been caught in the inspection in February. Thoughts on/experiences with auto belay? I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. The Giga Jul, shown here in manual mode, is a versatile belay device that can be used as a tube-style device, an auto-blocking device, or an assisted-braking device. Minneapolis bouldering project is the other big gym here. I just got into climbing and have gotten myself both top rope and lead certified through a certified course. When the climber reaches the top, or if they fall, the device automatically catches the climber and slowly lowers them to the ground. Apr 23, 2022 · What brand in particular. One of the more widely sold auto belays in North America was recalled due to a design flaw that caused some of the internal parts to wear more quickly than anticipated. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. I somehow didn't previously realize that the device is placed on a rail up there and that it can move left and right. Here are our in-depth reviews. An internal rotating wheel reduces friction between the rope and the rope-pinching mechanism, making it easy to feed out slack to a leader without activating the assisted braking function. Check out the poll and feel free to I'm very paranoid about belaying accidents, and would like to find a device that can be used as a backup for a belay, to lock on the rope if the primary belay device fails and sets the rope free (whether due to user error, or being knocked unconscious due to rockfall etc. Dec 14, 2017 · Always descend feet first, using feet to fend off obstacles and prepare for landing. Edelrid Mega Jul. Having someone belay with a device they’ve never used before and no Must use a tube style belay device for the test (no assisted braking devices until after you have passed the test) Must be able to catch one unannounced fall from your climber I know I'm working on similar autobelay feelings! Remember, autobelays are statistically safer than a human belay IF they're used properly - The device is much less likely to break and drop me than my belayer is to drop their break strand, for example. They play a critical role in outdoor recreation and indoor climbing gyms, providing a controlled and safe descent for climbers. Jul 21, 2016 · Enter the auto-belay, a specialized device common in many gyms that takes the place of a real live person on the other end of the rope. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Auto belay devices are essential safety equipment used in climbing and rappelling activities. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Also, can the grigri be used for rappelling as well? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A wiredog369 • Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Then the auto belay manufacturer couldn't prove that a problem with their device creating too much slack (which they knew about) didn't contribute to the fall (assumption being that with less force the bad clip possibly could have held). especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. The pilot wont let you rappel. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. Our top pick overall is the Petzl Attache. 112 votes, 17 comments. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. TRUBLUE Auto Belays offer the widest weight and height ranges of any modern auto belay system. Grigri. E. So that's how it pulls in slack. So how do they work? Sensors, software, and motors, which read rope movement and feed out/take up slack accordingly. Dec 5, 2024 · Here is a link to the instruction manual published by Edelrid, and here is a brief instructional video. Outdoor (real rock) auto belay? Curious if there are any devices that allow you to go sport /lead climb alone outside? I know they have automatic top rope systems but I'm asking about lead climbing outside. Aug 30, 2012 · One of the more widely sold auto belays in North America was recalled due to a design flaw that caused some of the internal parts to wear more quickly than anticipated. , the Petzl attaché has a pear May 28, 2021 · Grasp auto-belays' benefits in climbing: no belayer needed, ensuring safety, independence, and accessibility for climbers of all levels. Some tension in the rope through the device is actually required to ensure it locks- this means never letting go of the brake strand. This means that belayers are much In the comments I see a lot of people saying that they prefer non-breaking belay devices, which seems pretty obvious, but other people say that auto-breaking devices are safer, because they will usually break even if the belayer doesn't keep their hand on the brake. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. Remember, autobelays are statistically safer than a human belay IF they're used properly - The device is much less likely to break and drop me than my belayer is to drop their break strand, for example. The locking system is mechanical, similar to most assisted-braking belay devices, reliant on friction. Why do so many people not like auto-belays in gyms? Personally find them super convenient for training. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. Then, when you reach the top (or fall), it gently lowers you to the ground. Sep 16, 2021 · 274 votes, 101 comments. . [1] The claim against usage for lead climbing is that since the device auto-locks, the belayer is required to hold the device open while feeding rope to the leader. I'm just getting into outdoor climbing and looking for my first assisted braking belay device. trueI was wondering what assisted braking devices folks like for ice climbing? I have always used a Petzl reverso when ice climbing before. Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. The use of auto belays has been a hotly debated topic in the indoor climbing industry for the last 10 years. We've used these lockers attached to our belay devices, while building multi-pitch anchors, on the end of personal anchor systems, for setting up top-ropes, and for all the myriad needs while big wall climbing on El Cap. Anyone who ones an assisted locking belay device (grigri, click-up, mega-jul, cinch, etc. S. At the least be sure to have other climbers around when she’s belaying you. Hi - If I missed this in the FAQ I apologize but don't remember seeing anything specifically on this. I was using auto-belay today for the first time (technically second, but my first time was learning to lead while also tied to auto-belay just to feel more secure, so I had two ropes holding me not just the auto-belay). If you don't like the brake assist on rappel like some people, you can flip it, and it'll act like a regular ATC. The carabiner somehow got pushed up against a hold and unclipped from the belay loop leaving the climber stranded mid-route. Basically, my old atc has no teeth, no wall attachment and is hard to catch falls with. My understanding is that a bug might short-rope you, but that the braking mechanism is similar to existing autobelays. I'll have to change the belay device for singlepitch because the german alpine club now recommends auto-blocks or assisted breaking devices. I am looking into purchasing my first harness and belay device – during the course we were taught to belay with the Black Diamond ATC Pilot and were also introduced to resistance devices like the Ohm for bigger weight differences. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Durable, light and upgrade-ready! Self regulating magnetic braking system Designed for indoor or outdoor use Handmade in the USA with high-quality parts If selecting TRU-CLIP Connector, additional Key Links may be needed for optimal coverage. and metal work can go through the belay loop. There is also a Minnesota rock climbers group on Facebook. In September, after a four year long legal battle over an auto belay accident, Vertical World publicly announced a shocking $6m settlement. Same idea as a normal crash pad where the different density foams help prevent bottoming out. Dec 2, 2021 · How Does Lead Auto-Belay Work? Skeptics, perform your finger warmup, navigate to whichever snide Reddit climbing forum you frequent, and get ready to type. People who don’t know what they are doing use these without holding brake end of rope all the time because they falsely believe it is “auto-locking”. A common mistake while belaying a lead climber is to hold open the device the entire time, thus defeating the auto-locking Feb 12, 2024 · In terms of the best belay device, the Petzl Grigri 2 is a no brainer. We can be confident of that 44 votes, 121 comments. Dec 5, 2024 · This device feeds out slack easily, offers a secure catch, and has a useful auto-block feature for belaying a leader from above. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). But rope soloing is certainly not for beginners. Alternative to auto-belay devices for at-home climbing wall? Building an outdoor climbing wall. argwuz icez rusiial ibpo olcb ucqfkx okgac ymnj huo frq